BYYB Forums

I'm not sure about the plans, but most boats that employ a splash guard, don't carry them to the rails. This is one I finished recently and pretty typical of most designs. The reason you don't carry it all the way to the rail is, you will occasionally bury the rail and water will wash the side deck a bit. Not a problem, though if a big hunk of wood is there acting like a paddle, it'll cause the boat to bare off, which is just what you don't want to happen when slightly over powered and dunking the rail.

Paul,
Interesting, I hadn't thought of that.  But the reason I built the kind of coaming that I did, rather than per the plans, was specifically to cover the seam between the two plywood deck panels, which go all the way to the rails on both sides.  The coaming has a  pretty low profile where it meets the rails though, so hopefully it won't be a problem.  I don't plan on being out in conditions that would heel the boat over that much, but you never know.

If the deck is going to be finished bright, than I see the desire to hide the seam. If the deck is painted, well some filler and color will hide any and all seams. If finished bright you can insert something in the seam. For example you can saw cut part way through the seam line and inset a veneer. This way you can have a razor edge seam, which looks nice. You can also put in a fancy joint, like a locking scarf or something, to bring attention to the area, again with a razored in veneer. You don't have to buy a veneer for something this small, just make one by ripping something on the table saw.

On the one attached image is the installed centerboard case, the other the raw case as I was testing the board drop and lanyard pull. The top of the case has some 1x3's which make the case stiff enough to resist the twisting loads the ballasted board puts on it. I could have cut this piece from a 1x6 and made it a continuous length, from the front to the back of the case, but I wanted the grain to follow the slope at the back of the case. This created a need for a joint, which would have made a feather edge and fastening issue. So, I put a hooked scarf in the two pieces, even eased the edges of the joint to further enhance the look of the seam. It was painted per client request, but would have looked real nice varnished. My point is you can make a joint look nice without a lot of extra work or to hide things. In fact I ease the edges of all the butting joints to help hide imperfections in the joints. It's an old trick that looks cool and hides any wood butchery.

Weekly update for 7/20/2015 through 7/26/2015

Hours building:  18
Hours shopping:  2.75
Money spent:  $112.91 (includes $11.94 return) -- deck hardware.
Sold Harbor Freight trailer for $400.00 cash.  Quality issues led me to get rid of it...I decided to bite the bullet and get a quality King galvanized trailer instead.

Worked on trim, prepped seats and fabricated new seat backs, installed two cleats, permanently installed seatbacks.

I would have preferred to do all my finish work (varnish, polish) before installing any deck hardware.  However, the two cleats amidships had to be installed before the seat backs, because the area under the deck (where the foam is) is inaccessible now that the seat backs are installed.  First I cut out some of the foam, made backing plates out of scrap hardwood, and bolted the cleats to the deck.  But at least the seat backs are finally permanently installed.  That was a long time coming and I'm really glad to get that out of the way.

Foam cutout for cleat installation


Backing plate glued to underside of deck, cleat bolted with 316 stainless steel bolts, fender washers and Nylock nuts.  The black stuff is 5200 sealant/adhesive.  Cleats are four-bolt 6-inch 316 stainless hook cleats.


Seat back installed.


I tried to boil the ends of some 1/4" x 1/4" wood strips that I ripped for the inner trim.  The front couple of feet has a pretty tight curve and I thought boiling the ends would help them to bend.  But they still snapped.  I'll have to come up with a different solution for that.

Weekly update for 7/27/15 through 8/2/15

Work hours:  12.75
Shopping hours:  4.25
Money spent:  $70.17 (wood, glue, brushes and rollers.)

Major milestone today.  The woodwork on the boat is essentially complete, except for the spars and rudder.  It now just needs fill and touch-up, and final sanding before varnish and paint.  The floor will get Agra-Grit for non-skid.








.

Wow! That's amazing work, keep the photos coming you're going to have a beautiful bot

Brief progress report, 8/9/2015

No photos today but I've gotten all the filling done and have applied two coats of S-1 (penetrating epoxy) to the trim.  I'll have to wait at least a week for full cure before painting and varnishing.  I'll put in a full update next Sunday.

Edit:
It turns out I'll be out of town the weekend of 8/15/15 so look for an update the following weekend.

Update for 8/23/2015

I applied the fifth coat of varnish on the deck today.  No photos until after I polish it next weekend in the same manner that I did the topsides.  Manufacturer says I should wait a week after final coat before polishing.  Meanwhile I hope to get the interior painted during the week.  I'll post cost figures in my next update.

Okay, I know I haven't posted much lately...been busy.  So here's a couple of teaser photos.

All painted and varnished, and on a new King trailer.


Today I took it to the Wooden Boat Festival in Port Townsend, Washington, where it will be on display for three days.  So no boat building for me this weekend because I'll be at the festival.

Update for 8/3/2015 through 9/27/2015

Work hours: 98.0
Shopping hours: 24.5
Money spent: $3024.12  :o
(Includes King galvanized trailer, Costco garage canopy, set of Rolly Tasker sails from Stevenson, spar materials, and miscellaneous.)

Wow!  It's been almost two months since my last full update.  The hours and dollars really added up during that time.

I had some issues with the varnish that slowed me down.  I did a little too much with the polisher and stripped away patches of varnish  in spots, so I had to sand it back a bit and add a few more coats, then wait another week before polishing again.  The finish isn't perfect but I just want to "get 'er done!"  I also had the misfortune of some of the varnish getting behind the masking paper and fouling my nice shiny paint job.  So I had to touch that up as well.  Someday maybe I'll redo the whole paint job but not this year.  Overall, it looks pretty good but it falls short of what I'd hoped for: a professional-looking finish.

So without further ado, here are today's photos:











Spars are ready for a coat of S1 penetrating epoxy, then varnish after another week of cure time: