BYYB Forums

I used a piece of pvc pipe to line my bow eye.  I used an adjustable bit to drill the hole so that the pipe fit a little sloppy, then glued it in with PL premium.  My keel is made of plywood so I had to be especially careful to cover any end grain with something solid. 

Al

Weekly update for 6/1/2015 through 6/7/2015

Building hours: 5.5
Shopping/research hours:3.25

Money spent:  $77.28
(Another quart of blue paint, some mixing tubs, RO Buffer/Polisher.)

Finally!!  I got a halfway decent finish, albeit with orange peel texture.  To get this finish, I used the detail sprayer from the Harbor Freight HVLP kit, the one with the 1.0mm nozzle, and mixed the paint and 216 thinner at a 1:1 ratio.  Interlux instructions say to use no more than 15% thinner, but after talking to the manager at Wesco Auto Paints I discovered that a 1:1 ratio is pretty standard in the auto body shop industry.

I bought a Ryobi 10" RO polisher at Home Depot with the intention of knocking down the orange peel texture a bit and improving the finish.  First I'll make another trip to Wesco and see what their recommendation is.  I may need to wet sand it first with 1000 grit or something.

Here are three photos of the finish.  It took me three quarts of repetitive sanding and painting to get to this point.  If I knew what I know now to begin with , it would have only taken 1 quart.  Compare the first photo to the one on page four of this thread.







A few tiny insects got attached to the surface of the paint, but I think the knockdown and polishing process should get rid of them.

Well, you ought to be able to get that almost perfect with polishing. I'd wait a week for it to completely harden first. Nicest one of those I've ever seen.

Polishing will not remove all of that stipple, unless you make a career out of it. Knock it down with something harsh, like say 600 grit and get it smooth. Assuming you have enough film thickness you can progress up through the grits, until you're in the 1,500 range, where polishing can begin without requiring an elbow replacement surgery.

1:1 is too thin, though for certain automotive applications not all that uncommon. I don't usually go below 25% and usually can get by with 10%. It's all about tip size, pressure and paint viscosity. a 1.0 tip is fine for really fine automotive acrylic urethanes (most use 1.2 - 1.4), but Brightsides, though fairly thin, isn't quite as thin as the 1.0 tip would like. I'd prefer to see a lighter "cut" and a 1.3 tip. Droplet sizes will be better for this type of paint and it'll flow out better too. Depending on the gun, you'll need a solid 15 PSI at 10 CFM on the compressor, with this setup. If it's a "high transfer" style of gun, you can double the PSI at the same CFM requirement. A pressure pot will require a different arrangement, but I'm assuming you're using a gravity feed HVLP.

Weekly update for 6/8/2015 through 6/14/2015

Hours worked:  11.75
Shopping:  1.0
Money Spent:  $186.43
(Sanding and polishing supplies, 11 Amp polisher.)
Returned Home Depot polisher--was only 0.75 Amps--wimpy.  <$32.82>

At last, a decent shiny finish.  These are the tools I used, plus a compressor not shown, to get the final finish




And here's what it looks like





Not bad, but there were a few spots where I polished right through to the primer.  So I touched those up yesterday and re-polished those areas this morning.  Not perfect, but still looks pretty good.  Now, on to the bottom paint.  Here it is with the first coat of primer.  I'm using Interlux Primocon.  I decided to use a roller for the bottom.





Time posted for the week includes two more coats of primer I'll do later today.  (3 hours wait time between coats.)

Looks amazing! Can't wait till you flip it over and show us how you're gonna rig it

Holy crap! I'm just going to shut up and watch this unfold from now on. You're unstoppable.

Weekly update for 6/15/2015 through 6/21/2015:

Hours worked:  8.0
Hours shopping:  0.25
Money spent:  $4.12

Work done:
Finished trailer assembly, prep for flip, flip, sanding & cleaning, cloth and epoxy, trim excess cloth, cut out bubbles, sand & clean again, second epoxy coat.

I was able to apply the cloth in one piece by splitting the middle and spreading it.  However, it didn't want to lie flat since I was distorting it from its natural lie,  so there were spots with little bumps and ridges that I had to sand down later before the second epoxy coat.  I used 3 oz. "surfacing veil" so I was able to lay the cloth and then apply the epoxy on top, which wetted it readily.

Photo shows wet second coat:



I got a free rug from a craigslist ad and widened the platform's notches to take the extra width with carpet.  The carpet should protect the paint from scratches.

beautiful!!

Weekly update for 6/22/15 through 6/28/2015

Building hours:  6.0  (Includes a 2-hour consultation with brother in law, who used to own a Coronado 25, to help me figure out the rigging.)
Shopping hours:  3.25
Money spent (includes two returns): <$9.15>

Well, we're in the middle of a record-breaking heat wave out here in western Washington.  Too hot to do much boatbuilding.  I did manage to figure out the trim and bought some mahogany  for that.  But when I pulled the masking tape where the trim will go, a layer of epoxy came up with it in spots.  Hopefully the paint won't blister at some future date as a result of poor epoxy bond.  I hope to have more to report next Sunday if there's a break in the heat.  Here's a close-up photo of the epoxy problem: