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Was this really lee helm or where you trying to sail too high? What size jib did you have up? The first reef is usually the main, but this is to ease a weather helm, because wind pressures have increased. This moves the CE forward a bit to soften the excessive helm pressure. Were you able to ease your lee helm a touch, by moving forward in the cockpit?
If you have the option, try to use the leeward side of the dock. The wind will push your boat away from the dock, so no fenders should be needed. If there is no one around I usually just tie off the bow to the end of the dock letting the boat pull away as much as it wants. Other times I will launch and move the boat aside then haul it up on the beach while I park. I then sail off the beach easy peasy.
Al
(08-01-2017, 10:46 AM)Paul Riccelli Wrote: [ -> ]Was this really lee helm or where you trying to sail too high? What size jib did you have up? The first reef is usually the main, but this is to ease a weather helm, because wind pressures have increased. This moves the CE forward a bit to soften the excessive helm pressure. Were you able to ease your lee helm a touch, by moving forward in the cockpit?
I tried coming off the wind a bit to pick up speed then coming around for a tack. No dice. Couldn't get the jib to fill with wind the other way. I was sitting towards the back however. I'll try sitting more forward next time.
(08-01-2017, 12:10 PM)Al Stead Wrote: [ -> ]If you have the option, try to use the leeward side of the dock. The wind will push your boat away from the dock, so no fenders should be needed. If there is no one around I usually just tie off the bow to the end of the dock letting the boat pull away as much as it wants. Other times I will launch and move the boat aside then haul it up on the beach while I park. I then sail off the beach easy peasy.
Al
The launch is a single ramp, with the dock on one side and a concrete bulkhead on the other. Prevailing winds blow towards the ramp side of the dock, from the northwest. There's no beach, just rock walls, concrete bulkheads and the private docks for the adjoining condos.
I'm considering doing a quick/cheap build of a Mini Cup so I don't have to use a boat launch.
Mark, were you caught in irons? With the self tending jib set up, you can ignore the jib all together in a tack. If the jib is not coming around even after the main has begun to fill, then something is stuck. If you can't get through the eye of the wind, then you are stuck in irons and nothing will fill. However, the jib probably isn't the problem. You would notice if something was stuck or fouled. Try giving the rudder an authoritative push when you go into the tack, but don't push it too far or you will stall it out and your tack will dribble out.
The first couple times I tried sailing Duckie I got caught in irons a lot. I even sailed backwards in order to finish the tack. That works, but it is embarrassing. Paul's advice to move forward is good. These boats come around by swinging their butts around, so getting the stern up out of the water will help. You also need a good bit of momentum to get around reliably.
Keep trying.
Al
How's this for irony:
So I spent a TON of money and time building this Skipjack. It's beautiful. But it's a bit frustrating to sail and capsizes easily. It may end up being a garage queen. I'm thinking of selling it.
On the other hand, about the same time the Skipjack was completed, I found a Glen-L 21CB on Craigslist, with trailer, for $100.00. That's right: One Hundred Dollars. So I snapped that puppy up. Now, after less than $400.00 for boat, trailer, title transfer, tabs, taxes, parts and separate motor and VHF radio purchases I put her in the water this past Sunday. She sails surprisingly well, points high, seems seaworthy, doesn't leak, is much easier and more relaxing to sail than the Skipjack, and unlike the Skipjack has a cabin that sleeps three. But also unlike the beautiful Skipjack, it's frumpy and has a terrible paint job. It's old (1975) and the trailer is also old (1972) and rusty.
Both boats take about the same amount of time to set up, launch, retrieve and break down. Maybe slightly longer for the Glen-L. But now that I've sailed both, I think I'll be taking the Glen-L out more often, maybe exclusively so.
Here's my other thread on the Glen-L forum about the boat:
http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30976
Funny i found the same thing. For a flat bottomed boat i was amazed how unstable the boat was
And very sluggish to tack at anything other then a high speed. Loads of fun to build but not great to sail
at least in my experience
im not sure if its the narrow beam, or the lightweight construction, which in this case may be a negative. (paul would be better to comment on that then i would)
I've looked at the plans for the Spira Boats flat bottomed dory designs, and they are far heavier, not sure if that would make them more stable
I've never sailed a SkipJack, but I do have a fair bit of experience designing and sailing small, flat bottom boats and they're not easy to get right. As with most designs of this general size, trim and balance are keys to getting them to behave the way you want. The entry angle, bottom rocker shapes used, heel angles, bearing area, etc. all need to be well examined to get them to balance well. Relatively fat, flat bottoms usually don't sail well in a novice's hands. They seem stable, but can disappoint in maneuvering. Narrower flat bottoms are usually crisper in turns, but again it all depends on the design elements. I've designed some pigs, trying to get them to do more than they should, given their size.
I'm not a fan of the Spira 2x4 approuch to boat design. It just makes the boat way heavier then necessary, which you have to pay for in construction and towing to the ramp, not to mention on the water. Heavier boats, generally react slower than light ones, but this can be a disadvantage to most trailer sailors, who would prefer the boat to be crisp in maneuvering.
In most cases, I've found the sailor needs some adjustment, more so than the boat. Moving around to get appropriate trim for the point of sail you're on is the big one.
I've never sailed a SkipJack, but I do have a fair bit of experience designing and sailing small, flat bottom boats and they're not easy to get right. As with most designs of this general size, trim and balance are keys to getting them to behave the way you want. The entry angle, bottom rocker shapes used, heel angles, bearing area, etc. all need to be well examined to get them to balance well. Relatively fat, flat bottoms usually don't sail well in a novice's hands. They seem stable, but can disappoint in maneuvering. Narrower flat bottoms are usually crisper in turns, but again it all depends on the design elements. I've designed some pigs, trying to get them to do more than they should, given their size.
I'm not a fan of the Spira 2x4 approuch to boat design. It just makes the boat way heavier then necessary, which you have to pay for in construction and towing to the ramp, not to mention on the water. Heavier boats, generally react slower than light ones, but this can be a disadvantage to most trailer sailors, who would prefer the boat to be crisp in maneuvering.
In most cases, I've found the sailor needs some adjustment, more so than the boat. Moving around to get appropriate trim for the point of sail you're on is the big one. the Glen-L 21CB is a very different boat than the Stevenson designs. It's much more capable, has finer entrance angles, cleaner, a flatter run, more refined rig, etc.
If you are having trouble getting dunked in the drink, try taking someone with you to offset your weight and keep the boat upright. I am having trouble imagining that SS's are tippier than a cabinless weekender. I have looked at the plans and they don't look different enough to be a problem. Lately, I have found myself centering my weight down the middle of the boat to allow for some heel in various circumstances. In light air it works quite well. I can induce heel or not without any drama. Try tucking in a reef and leaving it there. Until you get a good feel for the boat, keep the sail area down to what you are comfortable with. Try sailing without the jib. It is good to get familiar with how it will handle under main alone. When running, try doing it under jib alone.
Also, if you are in the water quite a bit, buy a bunch of cheap dry bags or contractor garbage bags and stuff them with rags or old blankets, then tie them into the boat as floatation bags. The more you can squeeze in there, the higher you will float when you get back in and start to bail. Learning how to right and re-board your boat is a valuable skill. You shouldn't neglect it.
I would also suggest that you get rid of the clubfoot. Rig your jib with two jib sheets so that you can back wind it and it will push you through a tack if you need it to. You will also get better shape and control without the clubfoot. And you can heave to easier.
In the end, working through whatever issues you have with a particular boat will make you a better sailor. So far, it sure has worked for me.
Al
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