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I'm giving some thought now to how to run wiring for different things on the Weekender.

In addition to the regular lights, Red/Green bow, masthead, stern, and steaming, I'm planning on having an electric motor for auxiliary power.

I'm planning on having the battery in the forepeak and a switch panel inside the cabin.

My questions are:
- What gauge of wiring should I used for each run?
- Is there a standard plug to use for the motor?
- I've seen someone who had a nice electrical panel post a picture of it here, where did they find it? All the panels I can find are for large boats.

Thanks.

duckworks.

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/ele.../index.htm

Quote:I'm planning on having the battery in the forepeak and a switch panel inside the cabin.

My questions are:
- What gauge of wiring should I used for each run?
- Is there a standard plug to use for the motor?
- I've seen someone who had a nice electrical panel post a picture of it here, where did they find it? All the panels I can find are for large boats.

Thanks.

Well, for the motor, the bigger the better! If you look in the West Catalog they have a graph for wire size based on amp draw and length round trip for the wire run.

I would opt one size bigger than the ye reccomend for the motor. You really do not want voltage drop to the motor as it is your biggesftt draw and no need for amperage creating heat insted of propulsion.

This is the schematic I've used on my Weekender. I've noted the wire sizes on the schematic. I have provisions for two batteries in the forepeak and my electrical panel is next to the main bulkhead on the cabin wall. I used a panel just like the one at Duckworks but paid a bit more for it. :oops:
I added a cigarette lighter to plug in a portable CD player and can also use it for recharging my cell phone and marine radio. Plugs for hard wiring in connection for your trolling motor can be found at most any dealer carrying either Minnkota or Motorguide trolling motors or your local RV dealer. I paid $3.50 for deck mount waterproof plug and receptical on the "Special" table at the local RV dealer's Service shop. Same brand and model #'s at West Marine were more than 4 times as much. :? Quite often they are also available on e-bay using "Electric trolling motors" as a search.

Try this for a solar panel. Go to e-bay, type in VW solar charger.
Got mine for about $25.00. Going to mount it in the forward hatch cover.

I was trying to open the schematic, but it said I don't have permission to do so.

Not a problem as I have extensive electrical/electronics background. I was going to basically use a ladder type schematic anyway just about everything would be in parallel. with fuses to protect the circuits, and diodes to prevent reverse current.

I tried to post a free hand schematic, but it didn't work

Quote:This is the schematic I've used on my Weekender. I've noted the wire sizes on the schematic. I have provisions for two batteries in the forepeak and my electrical panel is next to the main bulkhead on the cabin wall. I used a panel just like the one at Duckworks but paid a bit more for it. :oops:
I added a cigarette lighter to plug in a portable CD player and can also use it for recharging my cell phone and marine radio. Plugs for hard wiring in connection for your trolling motor can be found at most any dealer carrying either Minnkota or Motorguide trolling motors or your local RV dealer. I paid $3.50 for deck mount waterproof plug and receptical on the "Special" table at the local RV dealer's Service shop. Same brand and model #'s at West Marine were more than 4 times as much. :? Quite often they are also available on e-bay using "Electric trolling motors" as a search.

All you need to do is register at the Messing About forum and you can access any of the gallery photos as well as post photos to the gallery. It is simple and doesn't cost anything.

Here is a good reference that you can access http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/alt...ables.html.

Ahoy Lee,

You'll find a lot of good help here on the board. Electrical components are way out of my category, but here is a brief summary of what we did along with some suggestions—


Wiring Guage
As I recall, we used 3 sizes:

• #2 for battery / trolling motor
  #6 for bus bar
  #14 for standard electrical (lights, etc.)

Electrical Panel
We used three:

• Battery Guage (to see how much charge we have)
  Bilge Pump Switch
  Electrical Panel (with fuses and name plates)

Suggestions

• Keep your cut-off switch near the battery (power source).
  You may want to use a circuit breaker as a cut-off switch; there are some nice ones available.
  Secure all your wiring; since a boat is under movement, you don't want friction cutting your wiring.
  A hinged door on your electrical panel might prove to be handy

We mounted everything in an accessible, but out of the way spot—




Here is a close-up—



Good luck on your boatbuilding, Lee. The electrical panels are relatively inexpensive, and sure make a boat look cool. I just hope our set-up works; we haven't tested anything yet.

Barry...

How did you arrange the two batteries in the forepeak? Are they on the bottom panel and one behind the other or side by side or what?

I built a shelf against the front deadwood/stem just below the deck to handle one battery, an Optima Marine Battery. The second battery is in a removable case on the sole of the forepeak against one side. It will get strapped in place during outings. A bucket for the anchor rode and anchor is going on the other side with a drop in shelf to cover the second battery and allow for other items to be stored there too.

A lot depends upon just how big the batteries are physically and what type they are as to placement potential. One Weekender on Maui had them on either side of the mast box agaisnt the front side of the front bulkhead. They were raised off of the floor just enough to get a good fit and then strapped to the front side of the front bulkhead and across the mast box with the buckle end of the strapping attached to the mast box.

Having both batteries forward does really help to keep the bow down and the handling really benefits from it. With all the movable ballast being essentially in the rear third of the boat it helps to offset some of it. Of course it does require heavier guage wire to make the run but that is a minor point as far as I'm concerned.