BYYB Forums

I am installing my seat backs on my weekender. There is a pretty big gap between the seat backs and the deck toward the front. I realize this is where splash combing goes, but I can't figure out how that gap will eventually be closed? Any suggestions, direction?

Jeff - I believe that I had the same puzzling dillema. My seat backs ended up going under the deck towards the cabin bulkhead and also changing from nearly vertical at the stern to having quite a slope at the bulkhead.


I'm planning on using this overhang to put screws up from below into the coaming (was that your question?)

I'm still working out how to make the coamings themselves but have a plan as the plans themselves aren't clear on this point. Rather than trying to bend some wood into shape, I'm just going to cut the coamings to the curved shape copying it from the deck.

I guess I should have mentioned that I have the seat backs extending a few inches above the deck (something for your back to lean against) as opposed to the seat back being under the deck. Which way are people going on this?

Jeff,
I just posted some photos of fairing in the backrest to the main bulkhead in the Gallery under Weekender. Also in the Progress Photos posting. I filled the gap with a length of wood shaped into a triangle that didn't quite fill the curve. That allowed me to apply thin filler coats of resin with fillers, or y(ou could use Bondo), until it was built up to a smooth fair curve. It wasn't complicated to do or difficult. It just takes a little patience. I also used a hard, smooth plastic lid of the right radius to make the final fairing into the seat back and main bulkhead. End result is a very nicely faired in and totally smooth transition.

I had modified the seat backs for my particular application but this technique can be used to fair in the stock backrests whether they extend above the deck level or not.

Thanks for the replies. I guess I decided to install as the plans suggest (below the deck).... mainly so that it is not a trip hazard, so it does not interfere with installation of the comb splashing, allow for sitting on the deck when sailing (which I prefer), it will be easier to fiberglass, and I think it will add more strength to the deck. I will make sure to install stringers in a way that there is no "twist" between the front and back of the seat back. Always have to think ahead on building this boat...

Hey Jeff,

I ran my plywood high, and sloped it down from the cabin bulkhead to the lazarette, staying a few inches above the laz at the back. At the cabin, I used a ton of bondo to make the curve on the outside and inside rather than use the wood strips shown in the plans. I don't have a picture of it at the moment, or I'd send one along.

Barry, how and where do I view your photos?

Quote:Barry, how and where do I view your photos?

If you enter this site through http://byyb.org - you will see much more than the forums. On the menu at the left is a link to the Photo Gallery and once there, you can scroll down to see new photos, pictures by boat class, event pictures and more.

Cool....got it. Thanks.

Jeff,
This cockpit modification has worked out well from a fabrication point of view and in finished form it has given my son and I )both of us tall and he has size 12 feet), plenty of foot/leg room and the extra seat depth due to the back rest modifications allows for good movement and comfort. Glad I did this this way. The coamings are attached from below the deck and can be removed if necessary in the future. The fairing in was not an issue at all. Both sides are symetrical and the have the same curve to them. The angles were not an issue either. The filler block between the bulkhead and the seat back was a major help in making this easier to accomplish.

Good luck, there are many ways to do this and some builders have had some good variations from the theme. Just avoid square corner cutouts, they weaken the joints considerably and eventually split or crack on you.