BYYB Forums

I was looking at my vacationer plans and they show the upper transom stringer at 2'1" 12,1/2" per side is this true? Thats what I cut my stringer to but before I attach it I want to make sure that it doesn't go all the way down on both sides. Any ones input would be highly appreciated,
Thank you in advance.

Brian.

Sorry Brian,

I am not sure what you are asking? And my plans are in storage, so I can't puzzle it out. Nor can I remember from when I built mine.

What I think you are saying is that the stringer lengths specified in the plans are too short to fit the space. Cut to fit. You want the transom to be the strongest you can make it. Well, I guess we have to still keep the stern out of the water :lol:

Keeping in mind the strain from the rudder, perhaps an eventual motor mount or even a posible swim ladder, not to mention the occasional dock. :roll:

Thank you Mike, Yeah I think your right about making it as strong as you can good point, I think I will go with making it full length I talked to keith last night and we went over the plans, and what My problem was is the top stringer on the transom, the one that the deck attaches to 1/2" down from the top edge of the transom , On the plans it shows it to be 12,1/2"to center so the whole stringer is only 25" when the transom is around 54 or 56" so as per plans it does not go the full length of the top of the transom.
So Keith and I figured about the same as You just go ahead and make it full length.
Man this board is fantastic I want to thank all of you good folks for the kind help you have given me,(and hopefully continue to as well).
So is it getting pretty cold up there yet Mike? My friends daughter lives up there somewhere shes in the military but I think she may stay up there after she gets out, she loves it up there, Any way she said it has snowed already up there.
Well gotta get to work see ya.

Brian

Brian it seems like these was something wrong with the curves between the transom and the lazerette bulkhead also. Check that before committing to any glue. I laied up the motor side fo the transom another inch with 1/4" ply pieces epoxied to the inside and pulled to the curve with deck screws. Remove the screws for the next layer. That transome can't be too strong as Mike says.

Brian,

Yep, snow down to the foothills, makes me nervous. We've been getting a lot of rain, too. :roll: It won't take much to go all white. Weather hear in the Matanuska-Susitna Valley is very mild compared to Fairbanks. Almost balmy.

Your friend's daughter must be further north, I'd make a guess at the base, but that would be divulging weather secrets.

I've been trying to get all the outside stuff done on the new house. At least the roof is on.

A build is a build, but truthfully, I wish the build was a boat. To consol me, Joan, calls the new place the Water House.

So yeah, keep asking away. I can always go out with my tape measure. I have to hunt down those plans though, bugging me, I usually have them at hand.

The Nathayla, my twin keeler, has been calling to me. I have hardly stepped aboard this season. And the Aurorawolf isn't even talking to me. :wink:

Ok well heres the stringer in place, What a bear to follow the top transom curve...




I will hopefully get the deck on next weekend.

Brian.

I think that stringer has probably given more builders fits than almost any other part of the building sequence. It looks like it is going to work fine for you now.

Yes that job takes a lot of clamps, and great patience to make it work. I trashed two pieces of wood, before I got mine to fit right.

Yeah I did it in one piece but man it did try my patience we shall see if it worked when I take the clamps off I may leave them on for a few days just in case it does come apart I still have the illusion for a few days 8)
So far I think that has been the most difficult part of the build, with luck it will be all down hill from here :lol: I'm sure. Truthfully though its been a little cool in the 50's at night so I want to make sure the epoxy cures up before I remove the clamps.

Brian.

Before you remove the clamps, hang a naked 100 watt bulb (or two) on a drop light rig, near the work, then cover with some scrap pieces of plywood. Make a sort of tent with the plywood, to keep the heat in. The 100 watt bulb will not burn up the wood, even if touching (though it may scorch if it is touching) and it will raise the temperature enough for the epoxy to cure. Let this rig sit for a good 12 hours or longer if really cool in your work space. I've had what seemed to be hard, but not yet fully cured epoxy, let go of parts a few days after I released the clamps. The constant tension from the loaded joint (bent lumber) strained the yet to cure epoxy, until it just popped, with a reasonably loud bang, I might add, which scared the crap out of me while I was eating dinner. So much so that I ran outside with a shot gun.