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And thus the work proceeds;
the two tackles hoisting and lowering simultaneously;
both whale and windlass heaving, the heavers singing,
the blubber-room gentlemen coiling, the mates scarfing,
the ship straining, and all hands swearing occasionally,
by way of assuaging the general friction. —Herman Melville

Ahoy,

We're not yet at the rudder stage, but we have given some thought about a rudder. Paul Riccelli , however, has even given more thought and here are some of his sketches, suggestions, and comments.

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Hi Jim,

Here are some rudder thoughts. File -30 suggests the foil shapes, file -31 is the profile, previously sent, file -32 is an inert construction method and file -33 is wooden construction.

The metal armature with foam and 'glass covering is the lightest and strongest method. The wooden method is tried and true, but can warp if poor grain orientation and lumber are used. It can also rot and gain weight with moisture content. If building in wood, it's very important to use a quarter sawn hardwood stock, with the grain opposing each other in the sandwich. 3/4" thick laminations will prevent it from delamination due to internal stresses in the lumber.

I'd be tempted to build it in wood and save the metal as back up if the wooden one needs to be replaced.

Note the bottom of the rudder is at least 2" above the bottom of the keel. This prevents the rudder getting pounded during a grounding or strike.

If the rudder can be made light enough to float, then this will help lift the stern a little. With the weight of the boat, being what it is, any help in this regard should be attempted.

The very bottom of the rudder isn't rounded over, but dead flat. This will allow a "fence" to be installed if helm weight or handling issues dictate a change.


Foil Shapes





Profile





Inert Construction





Wooden Construction




Paul has also sent an additional sketch of yet another rudder construction style, but we will post this sketch a little later. Maybe that way, any confusion might be less on our part (or should I say, confusion on my part).

Apparently, a rudder with a leading edge is still being considered. What are some of your thoughts here, Paul? My understanding is that such a feature would make steering a bit easier.

A quote from Bud McIntosh, who built and designed cruising boats for some 50 odd years. From his word choice and tone, he's the kind of man you would like to meet, the kind of man who sweats the salt of the sea itself—
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I trust that the above has put you in a proper frame of mind to appreciate the other kind of rudder — hung outdoors for all to see, vulnerable to attack by pirates, and terminating the length of the vessel in a no-nonsense lack of overhang. There are some (myself among them) who feel that after overhang in a vessel is worth its cost and weight when the vessel is running downwind in a big following sea. . . .

Beauty is, after all, in the eye of the beholder, and most of the present-day beholders are too young to have been corrupted by the seductions of ancient classics; so let' get at it, and build. . . .

You may find it hard to believe that there are hundreds of ways to make and hang a rudder, and about as many ways it can go wrong — to bind, or break, or jam, of fall off, or twist the stern of the boat out of shape.

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Such rudders as McIntosh describes, come complete with flat bottom cleats, drift pins, and rudder-stock bolts. A rudder of beauty and function should also have straps of brass and edging of copper. Our rudder will be an inboard rudder, but it must look the part of nautical tradition and seafaring strength.

— How to Build a Wooden Boat

The foil shape used, is a slow speed, kind of draggy, but has a large range of engagement form. It has about an 11% balance designed into it. I vacillate on the use of balance on this type of rudder, but currently I'm calling for a balanced blade. The balance is on the conservative side and the leading edge is blunter then most foil shapes I use. If additional balance is required to get a reasonable helm, a piece can be attached to the leading edge and the foil shape can be modified without ruining the work already performed. If the balance needs to be removed, the pivot stock will become the leading edge and the forward third will need to be reshaped a bit. This all permits the same blade to evolve through adjustments without having to remake a new rudder. Unless, of course, I've gotten it way wrong and the whole thing needs to be turned into a wall decoration, in favor of a better blade.

Personally I like the idea of using a hydrofoil as the rudder, to provide some lift to the stern, that is bound to squat more then I'd like to see on this boat, though it will be difficult to make it look particularly traditional. I guess, Jim could call the hydro rudder "battle damage" from an attempted pirate boarding, maybe carving some fake scars, bullet holes and cutlass gashes to expose the horrors that nearly came to be.

Ahoy,

As promised, here is the most recent sketch sent by Paul Riccelli. This rudder is likewise made of wood, but it is also a composite rudder, having an internal foam constuction with the promise of superior buoyancy.

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Hi Jim,

This is another way to make the rudder. I like it, because it can add considerable buoyancy to the very stern of the boat, where it will help keep her from squatting to badly. It is a strong, but light method, not as strong as the welded arrangement but that may only prove a few pounds of floatation, this will add some where over 60 pounds. That isn't a significant number by itself, but located at the very end of the LWL aft, it becomes very helpful as a lever to push up the stern and rotate the boat slightly around her center of buoyancy. This can offset some of the extra weight she is burdened with.