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Just found a trailer for my boat, but I could really use some advice before yanking it around anyplace. Long story short - I'm can get a deal on a used trailer, but I've got to move it (and the boat on it) - and it hasn't been moved in 5 years. (It's a combo deal - if I move it, I can have the trailer and my friend gets the boat...)

Anyway, I'm wondering what to look for, kick, push, etc before trying to move it. The initial move I'll have to make is ~30 miles, with a few good hills in there. Then, a few days later I'll have to drag it about 100 miles - with the option of a straight shot on highway. Obviously I'm going make sure the wheels spin, etc. and inspect carefully for any significant rust - although luckily it's never seen salt water. And the owner says that the tires hold air...

So what should I do on day one? i can afford to spend a few bucks on the thing, since it's almost free otherwise... I was planning on just sizing the wheels/tires when I see it and then just buying a new set to put on it straightaway, before I move it anywhere. Maybe that's overkill, but I'd sure hate to be driving if something happened back there... Then I started to wonder if I should replace the hubs/bearings as well, since it doesn't seem that expensive - I've been eyeing trailer hardware in all those marine catalogs.

Is it difficult to replace the hubs on a trailer? I'm fairly handy, but have never attacked a trailer before...


The boat that is on the trailer is 1600# - which I'm guessing will put it near the threshold for the towing capacity of my car which is 2000#, and as you can tell, my towing experience on land is limited to a few short, slow pulls. Should I be running the other way and looking for a friend with a bigger car?

Many, many thanks for any and all help! My current source of info so far from googling is a West Marine article on the subject. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/sto...lering.htm

EDIT: I forgot to say this, but I do intend to properly redo the thing when I can. Once the boat's off of it, I plan to sand it down, repaint the whole thing and basically replace everything. But first I've got to get through these two loaded hauls. ~30 miles on day 1 and ~100 miles on day 2 or 3 or 4...

Tommy Grab it and run. First check to make sure you have the wright size ball for the hitch, 1 7/8 and 2" is not the same size. have a safety chain just in case. I would check the hubs for grease, if it has bearing buddies just pump some grease in if not you may have to repack them. I would probably just install the buddy bearings pump it full of grease and head home. Air the tires up good and stop and check everything every 30 or 40 miles. Buddy bearings cost about 15 to 20$ a set. most boat trailors use 1.98 size and you just pull the grease cap off and drive them on. You can buy hubs pre packed at northern tool or some place like that a lot cheaper than west marine. The hub is a eazy replacement job, take the grease cap off take the key out and back the nut off and the hole thing will slide off the axle. putting it back on tightenthe nut up snug then back it off about 1/4 turn so the wheel will turn free. If you need more advice post I don't know everything about trailors but I did build them for a while. Good luck Bud

Many things could be worse than a free trailer. I got mine from a guy who had taken it all apart and was throwing it away. Had to drive it 50+ miles sticking out of the bed of my S10 pickup, more out than in... :lol:

Things to look fer:

1) Make sure the lock-down works. Don't wait to find a big bump to discover that the ball is not locked in (personal experience).

2) Tires hold air - and there needs to be a spare. If no spare, run to the nearest Wal-Mart/Costco/(insert store name here) and pick up one. They should only be between $40.00-60.00, and it would really suck to have a flat on such a trip.

3) Make sure the tires spin freely without making horrible grinding noises. The wheel bearings should not make ANY noise. Listen for rubbing, whining, grumbling. If you hear whining and grumbling, it's probably lunch time. Go eat something.

4) Trailer lights. Many a trooper are lurking out there for ruthless, lawless monsters towing boat trailers with non-functional lights. The world would be a better place for thieves and drug runners if we got all those dangerous people towing trailers without lights off the roads Seriously, though, check the lights. A complete kit costs about $30.00 (and up).

I would guess that the shocks are about gone from sitting that long. Not a problem for such a short trip, but you'll want to change them out before you take YOUR boat out.

As far as the weight goes, just take it easy. The 2000 lb rating is just that, 2000 lbs. If you take it cautiously, one trip like that will cause no problems.

Check into the price for a whole new axle. Adla discovered, and I can vouch fer, a new axle with hubs and bearing buddies can cost just a few dollars more than the hubs themselves - and you have no worries about the condition of said axle.

Repack or pump grease into the hubs. It'll ooze out of the seal on the back side of the hub, but you'll have fresh grease. Check the lights for proper operation and inflate the tires to 7/8's the recommended tire pressure, insuring both are the same. Take it for a short drive, say a mile or two, then park it and check the hubs for heat. You should be able to place your hand on any part of the hub comfortably, if not, you probably have worn out bearings and they likely will not make the 130 miles you need to go.

Trailer tires seem to be made to a lower standard then regular tires. It's pretty common for them to blow out, if they're old and have dry rot. Have a spare along, if you don't replace them before you go.

Doing a bearing/race replacement "in the field" isn't a pleasant job, but would insure you will not lock one up in route. I give them a quick check by jacking the tire clear of the ground and violently shaking the crap out of the tire. If you feel any movement or clunking, they are worn out and may not survive the 130 mile ride.

The wiring on trailers also seems to wear out pretty quick and a bad tail light will be what you get a ticket for, so check this out. If you are like many and have difficulty with electrical stuff, bring a buddy that is 12 volt friendly.

The metal on the trailer will have to be trusted, because there's little you can do in some one else's backyard. Obvious signs of rusted through supports and frame pieces should be checked out. Don't tighten bolts, most of them will be rusted tight and can break easily if you start twisting on them.

You'll know much from the quick trip around the block. If the hubs are cool, the lights work and the trailer doesn't look like it will drop the boat, start off on the 30 mile hop. Go slow. Trailer tires love to blow out at high speed and it's not fun to handle a loaded single axle trailer with a flat at 60 MPH. Stop every few miles or so for the first 15 miles and check the hubs for heat. If they stay cool, you'll probably make the 100 mile ride, unless a tire gives up on 'ya. Good Luck.

So, I bought the boat and trailer, as the price was very right. When I jacked it up and shook the wheel, there was some play - not a lot, but definitely some. So I pulled the hub off, thinking I would just replace the whole thing, and I found that it's an odd size. The inner bearings are 1 3/8" and the outer are 1". Now I can't find hubs that size. It seems that 1 3/8" x 1 1/16" is normal enough, but nothing with a 1" outside.

And yes, I've measured and measured that outside bearing, and she's 1" exactly. I'm getting pretty frustrated as I was hoping to get her moved today...

I suppose I could try to repack it and just hope she makes it the 22 miles, but the hub is very rusted, and I can't get the inner seal piece out to pull the inner bearing. I haven't really whacked at it hard yet, for fear of damaging something.

If anyone knows a place that sells those hubs, or has any other ideas, I'd love to hear all about it!

i meant to chime in earlier. Tommy - that is exactly the problem i had when i blew a bearing on my trailer: hubs a weird size - noone carried them. i have a couple of suggestions...if you are just dealing with RUST - then repacking carefully and going 22 miles shouldn't be the end of the world (but this is a big assumption since i haven't seen the hubs)....what i ended up having to do was drop the old axle and throw a new one on...i got the new axle and the hubs (complete) w/hangers etc for really cheap here:
http://www.etrailerpart.com/35ktraileraxle.htm

they have a lot of different sizes and options available. When i first went to put the axle hangers on i did it wrong (wrong placement) no big deal the pieces were like 4 bucks...went to a local trailer store and bought new ones...welded those on. My trailer is ancient and from a salt water environmnet...so it is rusted and pitted and repainted etc. BUT it tows like a dream. I am going to keep it as long as I can...here is me welding the new hangers for the new axle:



you can see the old hanger and the one i put in the wrong place - no big deal...they are on correctly now...much cheaper than a new trailer.



Good luck finding the right hubs if you can - but don't be intimidated by replacing the axle - it isn't that difficult. (i did it)


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