12-30-2005, 12:39 PM
12-30-2005, 01:07 PM
There isn't any reason not to use rope for the mast hoops but for one. The constant flexing and pulling on small rope hoops by the main sail tends to want to pull the relatively short splices apart.
Rope in itself isn't the issue as many designs use rope laced around the mast and thru the grommets on the sail and work just fine. But then that is a continuous length of rope and it tends to adjust itself for even tension and spacing.
The Weekender and Vacationer both have tapered masts per the design so hoops tend to be more or less snug at the base and quite loose at the peak. Lacing the main sail to the mast with a continuous length of rope as several of the builders have done is one solution for this. It tends to adjust itself pretty quickly to the different diameters. If the mast were the same diameter up to the point where the gaff is set then that might be more favorable to making a better situation for the hoops whether or not they were rope, plastic pipe or wire with parrel beads. One other thing is that if the mast were octagonal or round the parrel bead hoops would ride and adjust better in use.
Coating with epoxy isn't going to make them rigid, only brittle and may actually cause more issues than not coating them and allowing them to flex. Instead I would tend to make a longer splice in the single strand "Grummet" to make the actual splice cover a much broader part of the finished hoop. No need to go to a thicker rope to make it and a thicker rope would make a longer splice impractical. I would also tend to want to seize the spliced area with a tarred seine twine or marline seizing and bind that to the grommets in the sail. That would position the actual splice in a place that would keep the splice intact and help to prevent any possible separation.
As far as rope to use, I would seriously consider using 1/2" English Braids 3 strand buff polyester. It is easy to splice, holds the splice well and will hold up well thru the weather cycles. I don't think I would try to use braided line as the amount of core that needs to be buried inside would be quite long and I don't think you would have enough of a diameter in the rope to accomplish that reasonably.
The 1/2" diameter rope should be plenty strong enough for the loads that will be carried.
I would also try to maintain the surface of the mast so that it was really smooth and easy for the hoops to move upon. A rounded mast would make for less chafe and wear on the rope hoops and prove a more even loading.
I saw one large wooden schooner in Hawaii that had rope hoops for its main and mizzen sails. They were originally made from hemp with seized canvas coverings on them and then treated to maintain the canvas. Now they use synthetics and still seize the canvas over them but the actual splice is approximately a third of the actual circumference. The crewman said that they end up replacing one or two of them each season and don't expect any of them to last more than three seasons in hard use sailing inter-island. He said that they work great and don't have any issues with them binding. He also said that they don't break or unravel on them they just wear to the point that it is easier to replace them and not worry. And they just make them on the mast as they need to replace them.
He also said that they make this nice creaking sound under load and it really adds to the character of the tour for their guests.
Good reference is "The Marlinespike Sailor." Also Brian Toss Rigging in Port Townsend Washington.
Rope in itself isn't the issue as many designs use rope laced around the mast and thru the grommets on the sail and work just fine. But then that is a continuous length of rope and it tends to adjust itself for even tension and spacing.
The Weekender and Vacationer both have tapered masts per the design so hoops tend to be more or less snug at the base and quite loose at the peak. Lacing the main sail to the mast with a continuous length of rope as several of the builders have done is one solution for this. It tends to adjust itself pretty quickly to the different diameters. If the mast were the same diameter up to the point where the gaff is set then that might be more favorable to making a better situation for the hoops whether or not they were rope, plastic pipe or wire with parrel beads. One other thing is that if the mast were octagonal or round the parrel bead hoops would ride and adjust better in use.
Coating with epoxy isn't going to make them rigid, only brittle and may actually cause more issues than not coating them and allowing them to flex. Instead I would tend to make a longer splice in the single strand "Grummet" to make the actual splice cover a much broader part of the finished hoop. No need to go to a thicker rope to make it and a thicker rope would make a longer splice impractical. I would also tend to want to seize the spliced area with a tarred seine twine or marline seizing and bind that to the grommets in the sail. That would position the actual splice in a place that would keep the splice intact and help to prevent any possible separation.
As far as rope to use, I would seriously consider using 1/2" English Braids 3 strand buff polyester. It is easy to splice, holds the splice well and will hold up well thru the weather cycles. I don't think I would try to use braided line as the amount of core that needs to be buried inside would be quite long and I don't think you would have enough of a diameter in the rope to accomplish that reasonably.
The 1/2" diameter rope should be plenty strong enough for the loads that will be carried.
I would also try to maintain the surface of the mast so that it was really smooth and easy for the hoops to move upon. A rounded mast would make for less chafe and wear on the rope hoops and prove a more even loading.
I saw one large wooden schooner in Hawaii that had rope hoops for its main and mizzen sails. They were originally made from hemp with seized canvas coverings on them and then treated to maintain the canvas. Now they use synthetics and still seize the canvas over them but the actual splice is approximately a third of the actual circumference. The crewman said that they end up replacing one or two of them each season and don't expect any of them to last more than three seasons in hard use sailing inter-island. He said that they work great and don't have any issues with them binding. He also said that they don't break or unravel on them they just wear to the point that it is easier to replace them and not worry. And they just make them on the mast as they need to replace them.
He also said that they make this nice creaking sound under load and it really adds to the character of the tour for their guests.
Good reference is "The Marlinespike Sailor." Also Brian Toss Rigging in Port Townsend Washington.
12-30-2005, 02:35 PM
I made my hoops out of the synthetic stuff that looks like manila. I didn't splice them, I made a continuous loop like a grommet. See my article in the Gaff Rig magazine a few issues ago. It's real easy and looks very salty.
12-30-2005, 04:38 PM
Where do I go for the Gaff Rig archives?
Anonymous
12-30-2005, 07:47 PM
Drop an e-mail note to Dr. James Sanders. He is the editor and until they get the site back up and running there doesn't seem to be a direct link here.
rolandblais
01-13-2006, 12:22 PM
This is how I laced my mainsail - works really well:
![[Image: aaz.jpg]](http://www.rolandblais.org/albums/album04/aaz.jpg)
Peace,
Roland
Peace,
Roland
Robert Espe
01-18-2006, 10:23 AM
Careful, that picture can be deceiving. It works great, I used the same thing before I made hoops. Make sure that you alternate the way you loop around the mast (guess who didn't?) If you lace in one direction, you will get the sail exactly halfway up, and then it will stay there, won't come down either.
01-18-2006, 11:35 AM
Quote:Where do I go for the Gaff Rig archives?
Just enter the website normally via http://byyb.org
Scroll down the page to "Gaff Rig Issues" and pick the one(s) you want.