Usually I search the archives for answers, so forgive me if you covered this already. I am reading Buehlers Backyard book (Chrismas gift) and came across an interesting and from what I understand, old method of protecting the deck. Arabol, instead of epoxy. I cant find arabol anywhere. I guess it is now called Childers Chil-seal, but I cant find anything on that either. Anyone know what it is or where, or is not worth the bother?
From Wooden Boat Forum discussion:
Arabol on plywood decks is a stop-gap measure once used on working boats. It will promote rot if water gets under it, which it will. Probably had rot or deck fastening problems to begin with, which is why they Arabol-ed it. It is a bugger to remove because it is just soft enough to be impossible to sand and I don't think heat or chemicals will soften it. Arabol was a milk-derived heat resistant lagging adhesive used back when pipes were covered with asbestos. I suppose when the asbestos went south, so did Arabol. It was made by Borden's Dairy Co. They no longer make it and nobody has found a replacement for its use with "yellow jacket" as a deck covering. Thus, you will not even be able to recoat your decks when they need it, which the probably do, given as how long the stuff's been unobtainable.
Been awhile since I had heard the term but I remember that some commercial boats used to use it as an "on the water fix" when they didn't have anything else they could use to fix a hole in the deck coatings. It worked temporarily but was a real Bi__h to remove and clean up after use to make repairs. And as mentioned above, lots of rot below it when it was used.
Haven't seen any of Childers Chil-seal in a long while either. Same deal, worked before there were better products available that were easier to use and much better for marine use. Fisheries Supply here in Seattle used to carry it if I recall correctly. But anyone that had to make repairs after it had been used generally didn't have much good to say about it.
These were mostly Eastern Seaboard and Great Lakes products as I recall with quite limited reginal popularity and use. Many fine products available from modern chemistry that will do a much better job and be a lot more cost effective and user friendly.
There is a currently available self vulcanizing material called Spantex, (A Dupont Product for all weather deck coatings that has about a 20 year life span and has a finely ground rubber in the coating for an effective and easy on the legs/feet non-skid. It is availabe here in the Pacific Nortwest from a distributor who is licensed to mfg. it. I"ve used it on commercial work boats, search/rescue boats and oil spill recovery boats as well as sail and power boats. It comes in limited colors but has a top coat availble that is also a surface refresher that can be tinted to match most any color. I've used it in salt and fresh water applications and had very good results with it.
http://www.spantexusa.com/
This makes a good cockpit floor coating and I've never had a leak with it. Just don't try to use it on vertical surfaces. The top coat will self vulcanize as well and it becomes one seamless membrane when applied over plywood or fiberglass coated plywood.
Bit pricey compared to epoxy/walnut shells or fine sand. Or even a good quality exterior Latex Porch and Deck paint with fine sand or ground walnut shells spread over it and then recoated. I've used porch and deck paint under canvas on many a deck/cabin top, etc. Then recoated with a second coat of latex paint to saturate the canvas and it holds up pretty well for quite a long time and easy to replace/repair.
Thanks a lot Barry. I sorta had a feeling that it has gone by the way side. Right now, I am at the glassing stage of my weekender and my apprehension has gotten the better of me. I have played around with epoxy and have been very pleased with it. It made incredibly strong fillets (and does a really nice job making encased insects that I use in my science classes) I am always looking for a way to control costs, and to maintain some tradition in building my weekender.
Thanks for the great information on the fill-tex. Looks like great stuff, but a bit too much for me on this build. My next build will be one I retire to and sail El Caribe and I will be sure to go that route. Right now, its Pymatuning Lake and plywood paradise
Happy to help where I can. Epoxies have their place and in boat building they are most often the material of choice since they are compatable with most everything. And when it comes to repair work, it would be a lot more difficult without them.
Most cost effective deck coatings are going to be paint. My personal preference for true cost effective coatings are Latex porch and deck paints. They handle the weather, are good UV protective coatings, hold up quite well if maintained and are easy to apply and repair when necessary. Again my personal choice is to Behr products since they have much better quality control and lasting qualities than most of the others. Also custom tinting and wide popularity. Fine sand sprinkled onto the wet surface with a sieve to shake it out over the surface will allow you to have a nice even and effective non-skid. Just take a little time to mask off the areas you don't want non-skid on and then vacuum off tghe excess and recoat with one or two coats of paint. It will hold up for a long time and the only downside to it is that it is harder on the bare feet, legs and knees. Oh, obviously it doesn't sand off when you need to recoat. It has tobe scraped off. Not a big deal but if use finely ground walnut shells instead it is a nicer surface to work with and it will sand off for repair work.
Even easier and more cost effective would be the non-skid additives that are available at most paint dealers that simply mix into the paint and roll on. A couple overlapping coats and constant mixing will provide a very nice surface.
Bood luck and just do it. Time to get serious and get on the water this spring. :wink: