I cut and glued my curved stringers for the front of the cabin sides (under the decking). However, there is still quite a curve to attach stringers on the cabin sides. How did other people deal with this? Kerfing? If so, do you kerf on the inside or outside of the stringer. If not kerfed, can you really glue and screw that tight of a bend? If so, I can imagine trying to make that type of bend on the (cabin top) sides. Incidently, I am trying to use glue and clamps on the cabin unless I see some areas of real pressure I may put some screws.
I cut them to the curve all the way around. Deck and cabin top too. But I incorporated the joiner for the small side pieces of the cabin top with the stringer and just made wider stringers/panel joiners at the aft sides of the cabin top.
I agree that the screws don't really need to remain after the glue has set up. Lots easier to deal with shaping wood and not having to deal with imbedded screws that protrude into your work area. Also long term corrosion issues are elimininated. My only concern is the potential of glue starved joints where too much might be squeezed out, particularly if using epoxy.
Just take it one screw at a time. Get one of those adaptors that goes in the drill that you can drill and countersink at the same time, turn it over and screw the screw in, repeat. It will bend. If you feel better about kerfing though, kerf on the inside so that the outside is smooth and fair.
I kerfed, glued, and screwed the bottom cabin sides stringers. If I could do it again, I would cut the curves in like the front stringers. Even with the kerfs, which I put many in, it was too much stress. Now I am stuck leaving some screws in place instead of removing them because of the shearing force. I'll pre cut the curves for the roof deck stringers. Learn as I go I guess....
I made use of cargo straps to bend the wood and hold things as I glued and screwed them. I was able to do most of the work single handed.
Just as the tortoise, slow and steady will win the race. Take a methodical approach and don't hurry.
Jeff, if it makes you feel any better, there is also a downside to cutting them curved. You have to be a master woodworker to get the joint between stringers to be perfect when cutting them bent. I cheated, I just tapered mine to a point, and it seemed to work, but If I had to do it again, I might kerf them.
Forget about it.... the stringers are just glorified nailers. Better them be strong and several pieces than alot of kerfs and one continuous piece. You want to be screwing to something solid. If it breaks simply butt joint it and keep on keeping on.
Hi Jeff,
As you can see a lot of folks used the kerf approach, and that approach certainly works just fine.
On our boat, we did something stupid and labor-intensive, but our approach worked fine, too. We laminated the curve, and thereby eliminated any kerf and corresponding weaknesses.
I must warn you, though, if you choose to go the laminated route, just remember it will take you a bit longer. Laminations can sometimes mean lamentations. We're pleased, though, with how things turned out for us in the cabin interior.
Our hull is solid, and now so is our deck, almost solid enough to take on an unsuspecting small whale.
hock: One extreme to the other. That is the beauty of this project, you can take as many years as you like to complete it or you can build a boat and go sailing. It's all good.
All good advice. Angie Wilson hit the nail on the head though....the best, fastest, most practical solution. All the other solutions were great too. Thanks for the help. On to the cabin top sides and top now. Yipee.