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Rob McKinney

does anyone have a diagram of where to place the nonskid on the deck of a weekender?
Check out the Stephenson web site in the pictures section. There's a guy in Brazil who had some great top views and it really stands out well. That's sort what I went by.
Rob,
No diagrams are out there that I am aware of for non-skid layout. But here are some guidelines that I've seen observed that seem to work out quite well. You might check out some of Phil Gowen's "Aloha" photos. He has done a very nice job of setting non-skid areas.

1) Don't place non-skid anywhere that you want to attach some thing over it.

2) Place non-skid anywhere that you might step in any circumstance, especially if you were off balance and had to step somewhere to catch yourself.

3) for the most part on horizontal or nearly horizontal surfaces. Exception to that is if you may want to brace yourself while underway against a vertical surface and need to get a grip with your feet. Although you can use the stickon non skid strips in those places a lot easier.

Generally speaking you would want to outline the rail of the deck, the cabin and the cockpit. The bowsprit and chocks, deck hatch, supports for the taff rail and for the grabrails and sliding hatch on the cabin top. I would also do the area under the sliding hatch since when it is closed you my well want to step on it under many different conditions. I would also outline the outer edge of the cabin top. Seats and sole of the cockpit.

Also clear under any blocks you may attach to the side decks or rear decks. If you are going to raise them on bases then leave a slightly larger outline space around the base free of non-skid. Same thing if you have added any access hatches to the rear deck etc.

I've found that a strip of 1 1/2" masking tape is a nice width for all of these clear edges. If you have a compass that you can set for the width of the tape, you can jsut scribe around everything with a pencil line and that will give you the locations ato run the masking tape. It really is a lot easier on any relatively long edge if you stretch the tape out as Peter does in the video and carefully sight down it to lay it and gently press it in place and then step back and sight down it to see if it looks good. Then press it down tight to the surface. Burnish it down with a smooth edge of a stick or a plastic spoon edge.

It takes a little while to lay it all out but care in doing it will result in nicely defined areas of non-skid with a clear edge all around it. Water will flow of easily and cleanup will be easier to do after an outing.

If you are using resin to adhere the non-skid be sure you pull the tape before it cures. If the non-skid is mixed into the paint then best ask about that particular combination as to when to pull the tape. Some mfg. recommend waiting until it is completely dry, others while it is just barely dry to the touch and some while it is still slightly damp. In any case pull the masking tape off at about a ninety degree angle and back over it self and close to the surface rather than lifting it up at much of an angle. It will come off smooth and there is less of a possiblity of damaging the finish edge.

This is where it gets dressed up a bit too! Have fun.

Rob McKinney

thanks guys! Barry as usual an enormous amt of info thanks. off to taping
rob