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A quick sketch of what I interpret as a "boom traveller". Before I go ahead and make it, I'm looking for wise counsel...or anything else I can get



Is this the basic idea?

Yes Brit, that is the basic idea. You want the rod to be heavy enough that it doesn't distort in a heavy wind and light enough that it is still managable. There are a lot of boats out there that use glavanized plumbing pipe and fittings to create the traveller rod.

There is a big advantage to using one as opposed to a fixed mount in the center as it helps to keep the boom down as does a heavier boom rather than a lighter one. It helps a lot with the geometry of the sail shape. It functions as a vang withouth all the hassle of rigging one or tending one.

The line to control position of the block isn't essential on a Weekender but it does help working into the wind. Yes it is another line but one that you don't have to play with all that much. And it doesn't need to have a lot of excess as it only allows for a little movement of the ring or block on the rod itself. To keep it simple you only need to have a ring on the rod itself. It will simply slide along and works fine. But yes, a block is smoother operating.

Just curious, why are you considering a traveller if you are switching to a tiller instead of the wheel? You need to pay attention to a bridle instead or else a traveller that is a lot higher off the rear deck so the tiller handle can be lifted and still clear it. A traveller is still more positive control and less apt to tangle with things than a bridle would be however. But a bit more difficult to fabricate and make work with a tiller.

You could consider a hinged tiller handle that would hinge up forward of the traveller which is not that uncommon in other boats. That would allow you to keep the tiller close to the deck and under the traveller but a tiller will foul with the line to center the boom block unless the line(s) are led off to the ends of the traveller thru turning blocks and then cleated off.

Barry beat me to it. The description of the control line(s) leading outboard then through turning blocks and cleated, is the setup most manufactures use in a traveler system. A double jointed tiller can solve the clearance issues with an aft mounted traveler, also as Barry pointed out. Both of these modifications aren't particularly necessary on a casual afternoon sail.

Travelers can increase sail control and shape, but most lazy Saturday outings will not require this level of adjustment. An experienced sailor, wishing to get the best from his sail set, will sorely miss a traveler, but still could live without it. If your sailing skill level is higher then a novice or intermediate, then you may want the traveler. If you're still learning then this is a device that can wait until you can use it effectively.

Quote:Barry Pyeatt:
Just curious, why are you considering a traveller if you are switching to a tiller instead of the wheel?

Ah, you are just viewing the unbridled inner workings of my feeble mind....

Actually, I started thinking about the traveller WAY before I started considering a tiller. Just waying the pros and cons of each.So far, though, the pros way outweigh the cons for a working wheel system. There seems to be a lot of people out there having difficulty with the steering system, though. I guess the tiller fascination is due to my incessant over-planning, i.e. what to consider if the steering system goes to crap, and how best to plan ahead for the retrofit. If I find the need to switch to a tiller, it would be nice if the rest of my modifications worked through the switch as well.

Quote: There seems to be a lot of people out there having difficulty with the steering system, though.

If you install the steering system per the plans and take the time to get the stretch out, it will work just fine. OurDotCalm has been doing just fine for 5 years - it took re-adjusting the steering line tension several times before all the stretch was out of the line.

I believe that those having difficulty post a lot more about an issue than those who do not.

Anyway, it is certainly your boat to modify as you wish - that is what makes it fun.

I think the other issue that gets over looked, is the use of very low stretch line for the steering components. It comes from a marine store, not from WalMart or Home Depot. If using the wheel LOW stretch line is imperative as the system has more load on it than one would imagine.

One day a few years back, I was visiting a friend that was about to install a "new" replacement rope on his steering system. Not a Stevenson design but similar in concept. I wondered out loud just why he had two concrete building blocks hanging from the rafters in his shop. He laughed and said that the blocks were an essential part of his steering system.

He wanted to pre-stretch the rope so he would have less hassles with adjusting the tension on it. I let it pass. :lol:

But a few months later I was sailing with him and asked about his pre-stretch strategy and he laughed. He had to make two small tension adjustments after installing it. Both were because the knots tightened up and the system got a little loose. But he was tickled with the idea which he borrowed from someone else. That was a few years back but since then I've asked about it a few times and he said once it set, just forget.

The biggest challenge I see to making this system work well is to get any slop or wiggle out of the rudder box mounting. Pintles and Gudgeons or in this case eye bolts and a threaded rod.

This is a sketch of how I ended up doing mine.
http://www.messing-about.com/photopost/e...hoedit=260
And a photo of the same thing.
http://www.messing-about.com/photopost/s...?photo=261

There is absolutely no play in this attachment. When you hold the trailing edge of the rudder and shake it the wheel shakes the same amount. But it doesn't shake at all, it just moves smoothly and easily.

Quote: I believe that those having difficulty post a lot more about an issue than those who do not.

Ah, the squeaky wheel syndrome. BTW, what's wrong with the "quote" thingy?

Great idea, Barry. Is that PVC pipe enclosing the threaded rod, or something else?

It is 3/8" ID PVC pipe. I found it in the section near the Oatey clamps and fittings in 4' lengths. I'm also using it on my traveller rod which is a piece of Stainless allthread on the rear deck and solid on the front deck for the clubfoot. I'm using the allthread simply so I can thru bolt it to the brackets and I already have it. :roll: