Is it a good idea to extend the lazrette front to the sides of the boat to seal that section off? The way things look right now, there's a gap that opens into the area behind and under the seats in the cockpit.
I'm planning on having as much sealed floatation as I can and thought that a couple of scrap pieces of 1/4" ply could close off the lazrette.
Good idea? Bad idea?
I don't see any down side to closing off the sides of the lazerette. Hard to actually seal up that area however with the hole sticking out thru the transom.
It is also good storage space while on the water if you make the access door practical to use. It can still be sealed up. Use a tiller instead of the wheel and just close up and seal the lazerette. Drop an access port into the face of the lazerette or the rear deck and put one of those access ports with a bag to keep valuables sealed up and tightly where you can still get to them when needed. Or divide it horizontally with sealed space at the top above the access door. Storage plus floatation.
Personally I would still want to be able to open it up to vent it out with air flow thru it.
Andrew,
The only thing I think might be a problem is getting it lined up so the sides go on fair. It may be easier to attach it as designed, then cut some scraps to size, and attach them after the sides are on. The holes are handy if you are going to attach anything to the top the the Laz area (cleats etc.)
I think once I have my stern light in I'll close mine up.
J. Stephen Mustico.
Quote:Andrew,
The only thing I think might be a problem is getting it lined up so the sides go on fair. It may be easier to attach it as designed, then cut some scraps to size, and attach them after the sides are on. The holes are handy if you are going to attach anything to the top the the Laz area (cleats etc.)
I think once I have my stern light in I'll close mine up.
J. Stephen Mustico.
I was figuring on cuttin scraps to fit - I should be able to do that before I put the sides on. For ventilation and access I'm planning on a hatch or two on the deck part and then the standard access port cut into the front. I've been kicking around the idea of separating the area as Barry suggests as well but am unsure about whether the bottom section would be usable or not.
For wiring, I've got some plastic tube that I'm going to run around the boat and up the inside of the mast as a wiring chase (got to remember to put the string in it before installation :oops: ) and then the areas can be sealed up as tight as I like. I'm planning on the full set of lights as well as running 8 gauge wire from the forepeak to the lazrette for an electric motor.
Andrew,
You might want to install at least 6 guage wire from the forepeak to the lazerette for the trolling motor. You end up with about a 32' round trip on the current. If you put an electrical panel half way for cabin lights, running lights, coffee pot, air condtioner, etc. You might want to run 4 or 6 to the panel and then 6 from the panel to the lazerette for the trolling motor. The 8 guage that comes with the motor is really only heavy duty enough to hook directly to a battery at that point.
They electricians that did the wiring work on the boats that we built laid out wire sizes for my weekender and in just about every run recommended that I go to the next heavier size wire for better efficiency and less voltage drop due to heat loss. Lots less loss to be concerned with . Not a heck of a lot of an increase in cost to do it.
Hey Andrew,
If you want to give me a list of what you plan on running and some lengths, I'll give you the wire sizes per ABYC standards.
I just finished dis-assembling the Weekender and moving it so I don't have any final exact measurements.
Roughly though I'm planning on having a battery in the forepeak connected to a panel on the forward bulhead. From there I'm running with approximate measurements
- Bow light (6')
- Masthead & steaming lights - 14'
- Cabin accessory power - 4' (fan, radio)
- Stern light - 15'
- Electric motor - 15'
I managed to get my wire chase into the bow of the boat yesterday - it's a 3/8" OD plastic tube - hopefully lots of room.
Andrew,
I need to know the amperages as well. Assuming 15A for the accessory socket and 5A each for nav light, that leaves just the motor. Also, I assume these are the one-way distances to the loads ?
If it will help any, this is the wiring schematic that was drawn up for my Weekender. This was with the control panel mounted on the main bulkhead.
The wire sizes were what was suggested by the electrician that did our boats for us. All a little bit heaver than absolutely necessary but his logic is that you want the electrical current to do the job intended rather than just heating up the cabin space.
The switch panel is just like the six circuit panel available thru Duckworks.
http://www.messing-about.com/photopost/s...thecat=500
Quote:Andrew,
I need to know the amperages as well. Assuming 15A for the accessory socket and 5A each for nav light, that leaves just the motor. Also, I assume these are the one-way distances to the loads ?
Yep - those are one-way distances.
Barry - 50 amps on the motor???? No wonder it needs such a heavy gauge wire. My whole house runs off of 60 amps.