I originally posted this in the "Shop Tips, Jigs, and Modifications" folder but didn't get any responses, so I'll repost it here where there seems to be a lot more action.
As I am getting close to putting the sides on my weekender, I want to get a few projects done that seem like they would be easier with the sides off.
The foremost being the steering.
I really like the modification done by Terry Crisp.
http://groups.msn.com/SandbarsandDriftwo...ngmod.msnw
Basically, rather than cutting a hole for the short tiller to enter the transom, he used two "through the deck" blocks and . . . well, it's easier to just look at the website.
This seems to simplify the steering while still maintaining the salty looking wheel.
Has this been discussed here in the past?
It looks pretty straight forward to me, but I'm a newbie to sailing.
Any pros or cons would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Steven.
He is happy with his modification. I've seen similar arrangements on other boats and the owners have had good success with it. Simple enough to do and easy to maintain. And no, you don't need the turnbuckles on both sides. I would probably keep one on one side or the other as tying off the line to an eye is always a bit of a slippery slope to me anyway.
The primary concern I have with lines entering the transom is that there are lines outside that can get fouled. You also might think abit about mounting an outboard and possible issues with fouling up things there. With an electric trolling motor probably no issues, but if you end up with a gas ouboard for the salt water areas around here, you might find it a hassle. Or not! Just think ahead a bit.
eliminating the tiller on the design and the hole for it is worth the modification work in my mind. I just get a little concerned about the lines being outside. But it works!
You probably won't get much feedback on this since it hasn't been used by many other builders. It makes for a clean install.
A steering system I sailed with on two different boats (one being a Herreshoff Coquina) had a rope steering. No wheel or tiller, just a length of line attached in a similar fashion as shown. The inboard ends formed a continuous loop, running through holes in the cockpit seat framing around the front of the centerboard and down the other side the same way. A very effective arrangement, though did take a few minutes to adjust to. Woodeboat magazine did an article on Coquina recently and the steering system was mentioned.
My only issue with this system is, in the event of a broken line or detached bit of steering hardware there is no steering. If a steering line breaks on the original arrangement, you can still steer with a hand on the tiller (maybe a bit uncomfortably) through the hatch.
I also liked Terrys setup, and used it for my weekender. Although she is still a few weeks away from launch, I am confident it is a solid arrangment. In case of an emergency,, I did eliminate the taffrail and extended my rudder to allow for a tiller attachment. I made a traveler using galvanized pipe (Geo. Buehler idea) that clears the tiller if it is needed. I may add an electric motor in the future, but will use the Captain ply method to mount it.
http://www.stevproj.com/EMotorIdeas.html
I think it will clear the lines.
Quote:I may add an electric motor in the future, but will use the Captain ply method to mount it.
http://www.stevproj.com/EMotorIdeas.html
I think it will clear the lines.
As a "Head's-up!" warning...
I have the builder video and Mike Stevenson shows the electric modification on Weekender "Frolic". In his comments, he says they would recommend a standard trolling motor and mount rather than the permanent mount now. They found the boat lost a little speed due to constant drag and the enhanced maneuvering for of the steerable trolling motor made up for any awkwardness of the controller sticking up over the transom. The other issue was how they did the throttle controls for the motor - they found it to be a little awkward as well. (If I recall, they had them near the floor, under the seats, towards the cabin bulkhead.)
As he put it: "It was an experiment. It works, but probably isn't the best way to do it."
(Quote from memory - don't quote me on it!
)
Thanks for that update about the motor design. I will resist putting on a motor. Without it, I dont need to register the boat and I only have to pay $18 for a 2 year launch permit.
Thanks for the feedback.
A wealth of information, as always.
Barry - I hadn't thought of how it may interfere with the motor. I don't it will stop me from using this steering, but I will make sure I plan it all out before I cut holes for the "thru-deck" blocks. I'm doing a lot more thinking and a lot less building at the moment. The moaning chair is getting a work out.
Paul - One of the reasons I liked this "simpler" design, was that if something did go wrong with the steering, I could thread a piece of rope through the eye on the rudder and attach it midway on the rope. I could then feed the other two ends of the rope around the port and starboard side of the taffrail and steer by pulling the ropes. I did see the article in Woodenboat and that is what got me thinking about this as a backup steering option. There would be a lot of lines everywhere, but at least I would get home.
Now I just have to make sure I don't mount the thru deck blocks too low on the transom or I may sink her at the launch!!
Steven.
Steven,
Yes, take the time to think it all out and plan ahead. Many a good idea has been wiped out just because of other conflicts down the road. I don't see any real issues other than being sure the thru deck blocks don't get in the way of a potential motor mount/use problem. That moaning chair has had several coats of paint on it since I started my Weekender. :lol:
The issue of steering failure with this design is remote but emergency steering application is just the same as with the stock design. The weakest point in the stangard steering seems to be the tiller. And that is more of a grain type/wood type selection process than anything else.
Other consideration is how smooth and tight the actual pivots are fabricated for the rudder. I presssed inserts into the eyes and then ran threaded rod down the middle with "Tee" nuts inserted into the middle of the inserts. Tight, very smooth and solid. No vibrations or use will have any effect on it and absolutely aligned.