BYYB Forums

Hello, everyone.

I'm Mehmet from Mersin/Türkiye. First of all I apologize for any mistakes I can make with inadequate English. I think I will improve with plenty of practice over time and thank you in advance for your assistance and patience in this regard.

Vacationer is flat bottom, low profile, "25-30cm." can be defined as a lake boat boat. In wich they are warning that they have sheltered waters even in their own web site.

When I gave my heart to this project many years ago, this expression; Due to my lack of experience and knowledge of the sea, he forced me to leave

Until this time I noticed that boats like walnut shells travel safely at sea. Of course there are other reasons, my age is moving forward and my financial situation is constantly deteriorating.  And I do not want to die without a tour with my own boat.

For this reason I decided to do "Vacationer", which I thought could be done on a low budget, in short time without help, and with some modifications.

First: I'll put the engine in a well. Then I aim for a more comfortable cruising by adding a V-base Karina suitable for the open seas such as Mediterranean, Aegean and Black Sea. Of course, the cabin will to rise to the point where it would not break the proportions and It's also a bit larger. I will also do "full spine and skeg" where I can add bile when needed.

Finally, The project is based on the original plywood, but the plywood prices have flying. For this reason, I decided to make it from solid wood and I preferred to make the material "Laden" because the only material that could be found in this region is pine.


First, I decided to started to improvise the changes I'm going to make on the 1/10 model that the project.



On plan DWL line unfortunately does not exist. When I  according to the observation I got from the images on the surface of the sited and those who applied it earlier, it looks like the head of the craft will bury 2-3 degrees in the water as the DWL line is draw.

No longer; After to paint it with epoxy. I left it to water to see it in the water and identify the non-plan DWL line.









When I threw it to the water, it was happened the first thing I predicted. The waterwave lined low 2 degrees from the axis of the spine. Then I noticed that the curtain on which the pole box lined was placed 2 degrees horizontally. Maybe for this, do not know real reason . Anyway I decided to continue.

Probably the pulley on rudder caught your attention. It for the rudder movement to be moved to the "yeke" is due to the inverted tilt of the stern, you don't look at the roughness of its dimensions.

Now it's time to transfer the changes made to the plan.













My goal in making the modifications is to use this boat, which I like too much, in the three seas of the country safely and with the highest possible comfort.
Or I know that I can find hundreds of different plans, but my heart is say Vacationer.
I also know that after these modifications, there will be no more "Vacationer" but I am sure that this new face of, with the classic images she will conquer hearts ...

Well, I see you've made it over here. Welcome to the forum.

As I previously mentioned, the model looks fine, though without the math, to find out what has happened to the CG, CB, CE/CLP relationship and of course the new CLP and KM, you'll have a very difficult time justifying these levels of modifications.

I like that you've increased the deadwood aft, which this boat badly needs, but you've left the bulbous forefoot, which is a considerable hindrance to her maneuverability.

Additionally, the false bottom will be a condensation trap, with little good that can come about because of it. This may have been just your way to make the bottom and if so, disregard the comment. I would be nice if you could use the appropriate terminology, so we can talk about the same thing. The "spine" is actually the keel, which is made up of a deadwood assembly. There is a preferred LWL, though not detailed on the plans, your observations have it about right. The lack of a LWL on the plans is likely because it really doesn't matter on a boat like this. It'll be what it is, when the boat is launched. Each is slightly different with trim down at the bow or the stern, depending on how the boat was built.

Without a profile view of the new hull it's hard to determine if the chine is well shaped and appropriately located, but it appears pretty good. The deadrise you've given her will not make her very suitable for rough or even moderately choppy waters, but she'll be more comfortable in smooth and modest chop.

Lastly, as I previously hinted, you do need to calculate the center of masses. If done by hand, this is a tedious affair, but doable on a vessel of this size. Most use a spread sheet to keep track of the CG and weights of things on the boat, which makes things much easier. Once you've got the various things measured, you can find how the boat will trim, it's center of lateral area, center of gravity, center of buoyancy, etc. With these figures in hand, you can locate the CE for the rig, you'll know were to paint the waterline, she'll float were you thought she would come launch day, etc.

It's just as easy to build a boat that you'll hate to use, because it's balance is so bad, as one that's well designed and balanced. Sailboats, in particular are all about getting the right balance, when designing it. There's an old saying about if it looks right, it is right, but not with sailboat design. You either have it pretty close or it's an ill handling beast.

Yes you are right Paul. I had forgotten to add the profile and batoks view.


Side view




Batoks view


I understand your worries about calculations. I would like you to know that I am making the necessary calculations from Ted Brewer's design rate theory and the book "Yacht design principles" published by "Lars Larsson - Rolf Elasson" mentioned earlier.
As I said before, I will not go into long explanation because I feel insufficient in English myself.
Now; changes I made on the model, I am transferring to the plan. As you can see, we will be able to get all the values you mentioned when I finished the 3D model.
My intention is that, as you see: I am not creating a boat of class A or B, from Vacationer. But maybe I can upgrade to class C.

Thank you for your relevant.

Costek,
Welcome the forum.  Cool little model you built there.

I built a Skipjack recently, which has a similar design (sans cabin), albeit smaller.  After this experience I'll repeat what I've argued on another prospective builder's thread.  Don't build a Stevenson design.  And with the mods you're thinking about, I'd say that goes double for you.  And since you want to sail in the Med, I'd even say that goes triple for you.  There are plenty of good, seaworthy boat designs for home boatbuilders in that size range, in plywood, planking or fiberglass, that would be much better suited to your goals.  Here are some examples:

Glen-L 21 CB
https://www.boatdesigns.com/21-Glen-L-21...ducts/446/
I owned one of these last year, built in the 1970s, and found it to perform well in my home waters of Puget Sound.  One thing I didn't like was the swing keel's trunk which intruded into the cabin.

Glen-L Amigo
https://www.boatdesigns.com/22-Amigo-tra...ducts/423/
This is a fabulous design with standing headroom in the cabin and is seaworthy enough to go practically anywhere.  In fact one builder of this boat spent years sailing all over the Pacific.  It's a strip plank design so it will take considerable time to build however.  Can alternatively be built in fiberglass.  I know of one builder in my area who built his out of discarded backyard deck cedar planks.

Glen-L 25
https://www.boatdesigns.com/25-Glen-L-25...ducts/447/
A more modern design than the Amigo and the plywood design would be quicker to build.

Glen-L James Cook
https://www.boatdesigns.com/27-James-Coo...ducts/453/
This is a larger boat than you're probably interested in but I post it here because of its cold-molded planking design.

CLC Pocketship.
https://www.clcboats.com/shop/boats/wood...r-kit.html
Smaller than the Vacationer but a good option if you want a relatively quick build in a stitch-and-glue design.  More seaworthy and better performing than any Stevenson design.  All supplies available from CLC.  Fits on trailer in standard garage stall.

James Welsford's Sundowner.
http://jwboatdesigns.co.nz/plans/sundowner/index.htm
This very seaworthy cold-molded design is about as long as the Vacationer, but just look at that cabin space!

Other designs can be found here and elsewhere:

Benford design group
http://benford.us/index.html
One of Jay Benford's designs, a flat bottomed dory dubbed "Badger," is featured in the book "Voyaging on a Small Income."  The authors built this 33-FT cruising yacht in the 1980s for about 11000 British pounds.  I contacted Jay Benford about this design recently and he guessed it would cost about $40000 US dollars to build now.  He has smaller, similar designs as well.

Duckworks Magazine has some eclectic designs available.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/indexes.htm

Selway-Fisher Designs.
http://www.selway-fisher.com/PocketC.htm

Hartley Boat Designs.
http://hartley-boats.com/

There's more out there.  Google is your friend.

If I had it to do over again though, I wouldn't build, I'd buy used.  In fact I did just that after finishing my Skipjack when I bought the Glen-L 21 CB for a mere $100.00 US, including the trailer.  Deals are out there if you're patient and keep looking.

Building your own boat new will cost far more than you imagine, and if you ever sell it you're likely to receive pennies on the dollar.  If you can get back even half your materials costs, consider yourself lucky.  I started my Skipjack thinking I could build it for about $3000.  By the time I'd finished it had cost over $9000, and took 2 1/2 years to build, albeit not full-time.  All the more reason, if you're set on building, to build something better designed for your planned use than the Vacationer.

Costek,
Here's a good example of what's available in the used market in your country, similar in size to the Vacationer.  Westerlys are solid boats and this one appears to be in good condition.

http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/c...1&fracts=1


You'd be hard-pressed to build a Vacationer for less money than you could buy this for, especially if you can convince the seller to accept a lower offer.

Instead of building a boat over months or years, you could be sailing this boat this Summer.

I started to equip the rigging. She is approaching on water...

Hi everyone.
Finally; I could see it in the water. First it is empty, then 2Kg. installed, then 4.5Kg. tried it as full of stone.


unladen


2kg. loaded


Stuffed with stone


empty and laden water line

While the model must have the unladen weight that I predicted, "1,250gr." Although it is heavy, "2,100gr." gave an idea about the boat to be built.


This is 4.5Kg. video of cruising while the stone is full.

https://youtu.be/0rgOwZzs-x4


So, necessary lessons were taken and notes , corrections made. 6M to build the long keel. height 40Cm. Diameter was taken from red pine; tomorrow will be cut into lata.

Although I have worked so hard on it, I am a bit afraid to admit it. : crying If a freak emerges ...