BYYB Forums

Back in 2013, Paul wrote:
The gaff rig is a pretty forgiving thing, but generally you do want the rigging strains to transmit through the mast, into the mast stub, base or tabernacle, eventually dispersing to the hull shell. If the mast doesn't touch at the hinge, then all the energy is taken by a little pin and some stamped steel straps, which will bend in time. I prefer tabernacles, just because they are stout enough to tolerate the mast going up and down a lot, with a bit more control, especially if you have to do it on the water to clear a bridge or something. The hinge works and a similar arrangement is used on production boats, but neither is very durable if the boat gets used a lot. How much is a lot? I'm in one of my boats at least 3 times a week, nearly every week of the year. That's a couple dozen times a month, which will wear out a weak knee part pretty quick. If you're a casual sailor and once a week is a lot to you, maybe the hinge is all you need. 

A couple years ago, Al asked me:
Are you going to use a tabernacle of some sort for your mast?  Given the potential for heavy weather coming up in your face you might want to consider just for the race stepping a one piece mast with traditional wedges.  Losing your mast would not be good and a single piece stick would go a long way toward preventing that. 

I latched on to Al's input with the plan to build (using Paul's hollow mast out of four 2x4s design) both a hinge version (since I already have the hinges with welded tabs) for training AND a solid mast for when I sail my boat in the Race to Alaska, built out of the best quality 2x4s I could find at a lumber yard.

I recently learned that I now have access to some old growth lumber whose grain is so fine "you need a magnifying glass to see it." So now I want to use the "stout real tabernacle" that Paul described creating plans for, and only build one mast out of that. But my mast box is built, so I need a good retrofit design.

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I came across a couple designs that I believe I could tack on to my existing piece of mast base quite conveniently.

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Recommendations? (And assuming I go this way, I'll have a nice set of galvanized gate hinges with welded tabs for sale...)

I'm just diving into building the masts on my canoe yawl.  I am facing the same issues that you are but haven't come to any hard and fast decisions.  So far, the mizzen is mounted on a tabernacle that I just finished putting together yesterday.  For that style and size of sail, it is the most reasonable and efficient way to go.  The main mast is not determined yet because it doesn't stand in a step that goes below the deck.  I have to make a plan to  build the deck attachment strong enough to handle all that torque.  Probably if I can't think of anything better, I will go with a hinge above the gooseneck.  After eight years of sailing with the hinge I think I have discovered all of its weaknesses and compared them to its advantages.  The hinge is still leading in that race. 

However in your particular case, I still stand by the solid mast planted deep in your mast box as the best option for just the race.  Masts are pretty easy to build.  A simple tapered stick is nothing to build.  A tapered box, a bit more trouble but well worth the effort.  An octagon, even more so.  I'm not convinced that going all the way to round will deliver a better leading edge than octagon that justifies the extra effort.  When I re-shaped my mast to its current octagonal shape I noticed a definite improvement in performance.  Coupled with the lighter gaff, that may have been the best improvement that I have done for Duckie.  Paul is absolutely right about getting all the weight off your rig.  It will also help with the righting moment.  Whatever you do, I think you will be fine as long as your shrouds don't let go. 

Al

The build method for most small boats should be gauged to the sailing abilities of both the skipper and the actual design. In all cases a hollow, well shape spar will pay dividends, but how much depends on the skipper and the design. Some designs and many skippers can only expect so much, even with the lightest, best shaped sticks. On the other hand, if you're a good sailor and the design has some performance potential, this is when the choices become more pronounced.

Except for very small boats and particularly those with limited sailing abilities, would I suggest a solid stick for a spar. Just cutting down the centerline of a solid spar, hollowing out the insides a bit and gluing it back together can yield a 20% - 45% weigh reduction for little effort and maintain the same strength and stiffness.

Lastly corners aren't as desirable on the leading edges of wings (sails). If you must, just round them over a little with some paper and go for it.