02-02-2015, 09:53 PM
Hello everyone. New member here. Just posted a rather long-winded introduction on the new members page.
Anyway, welcome to my Skipjack build thread. I plan to post fairly detailed progress reports with photos. Also, as a service to prospective builders who might be worried about materials costs, I'll be keeping an expense log and posting the numbers here as well. However, I plan to use top notch materials that are suitable for marine use, not construction grade materials designed for home building. With all the work I'll be putting into this project, I want it to last. You can probably build a Skipjack for less than half of what I'll end up spending. (But mine will probably outlive me. Will yours? ;D )
I'll also note the modifications I make as I go along, and the hours spent on each stage.
So, without further ado, let's go.
Here you are looking at $1,267.24 in lumber from Midway Plywood in Mukilteo, WA.
I also spent $140.69 on small tools, screws and non-materials supplies at Home Depot.
The Batten is an 11-ft oak door stop moulding, 3/4 x 1/4 at $.42
The large 5x10 plywood is Okoume AA marine plywood, BS1088 standard, Lloyds certified.
The standard 4x8 plywood is Merante AA marine Hydratech plywood, also BS1088.
All the board stock is African mahogany, clear vertical grain. I'll be using this for the Keel, stringers, gussets, and panel joiners.
This isn't everything I'll need, but it will get the hull, deck and benches built.
The boards for the keel are 13/16 thickness, so the finished keel will be 1 3/4 thick. The boards for the stringers are 15/16 thick, so I should be able to use 1 1/4" coated deck screws instead of drywall screws. Deck screws are much more rust resistant but the shortest they make are 1 1/4".
You may be wondering why I bought oversized 5x10 plywood. The answer is that I don't like the placement of the joints in the plans. So much so that I was going to special order 4 x 16 plywood from Boston but then found out that it's made by scarfing two 4x8 sheets end to end. So I decided against that. With 5x10s though, I can move the floor joint forward of the front bulkhead. and I can eliminate visible seams altogether on the top deck, cutting the whole cockpit deck out of one piece. The foredeck will be cut from the leftover middle cutout. My idea here is that if I make a v-shaped coaming up front, I can hide the seam, making the whole deck look like one piece, with a glossy woodgrain varnished finish. That's the plan anyway. We'll see how that goes.
Here's my first bit of rough cutting. I present to you the first half of the keel, in beautiful clear grain mahogany. It'll be a shame to glass and paint it.
Time spent so far:
Watch DVDs twice--7 hours
Shopping and purchasing lumber--3 hours
Researching and shopping for Glue (didn't buy yet)--4 hours
Rough cut first layer of keel--4 hours
Until next time,
Cheers.
Anyway, welcome to my Skipjack build thread. I plan to post fairly detailed progress reports with photos. Also, as a service to prospective builders who might be worried about materials costs, I'll be keeping an expense log and posting the numbers here as well. However, I plan to use top notch materials that are suitable for marine use, not construction grade materials designed for home building. With all the work I'll be putting into this project, I want it to last. You can probably build a Skipjack for less than half of what I'll end up spending. (But mine will probably outlive me. Will yours? ;D )
I'll also note the modifications I make as I go along, and the hours spent on each stage.
So, without further ado, let's go.
Here you are looking at $1,267.24 in lumber from Midway Plywood in Mukilteo, WA.
I also spent $140.69 on small tools, screws and non-materials supplies at Home Depot.
The Batten is an 11-ft oak door stop moulding, 3/4 x 1/4 at $.42
The large 5x10 plywood is Okoume AA marine plywood, BS1088 standard, Lloyds certified.
The standard 4x8 plywood is Merante AA marine Hydratech plywood, also BS1088.
All the board stock is African mahogany, clear vertical grain. I'll be using this for the Keel, stringers, gussets, and panel joiners.
This isn't everything I'll need, but it will get the hull, deck and benches built.
The boards for the keel are 13/16 thickness, so the finished keel will be 1 3/4 thick. The boards for the stringers are 15/16 thick, so I should be able to use 1 1/4" coated deck screws instead of drywall screws. Deck screws are much more rust resistant but the shortest they make are 1 1/4".
You may be wondering why I bought oversized 5x10 plywood. The answer is that I don't like the placement of the joints in the plans. So much so that I was going to special order 4 x 16 plywood from Boston but then found out that it's made by scarfing two 4x8 sheets end to end. So I decided against that. With 5x10s though, I can move the floor joint forward of the front bulkhead. and I can eliminate visible seams altogether on the top deck, cutting the whole cockpit deck out of one piece. The foredeck will be cut from the leftover middle cutout. My idea here is that if I make a v-shaped coaming up front, I can hide the seam, making the whole deck look like one piece, with a glossy woodgrain varnished finish. That's the plan anyway. We'll see how that goes.
Here's my first bit of rough cutting. I present to you the first half of the keel, in beautiful clear grain mahogany. It'll be a shame to glass and paint it.
Time spent so far:
Watch DVDs twice--7 hours
Shopping and purchasing lumber--3 hours
Researching and shopping for Glue (didn't buy yet)--4 hours
Rough cut first layer of keel--4 hours
Until next time,
Cheers.