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I'm building a 1/4 scale model of my Weekender as a winter project.  I've started lofting the keel and I ran into the confusing measurements at station 13.  It's the point where the keel meets the stern  post.  I forgot how I resolved the issue on my boat.  I know there was a post in the "Messing-About" forum, but the link was broken.  The post was probably taken down.  Does anyone have a copy of that post, or can anyone clear up the measurement confusion at station 13.

Dave

In Figure 2. the dimension for the end of the keel can be confusing. At station 13, the top nail is located 3-3/8" above the reference line. the bottom nail is located 1/2 " ABOVE the reference line.
Here is where it gets confusing. The end of the keel is located 5-5/8' past station 13 at the very top edge of the 1x12. Make a mark at this point, and when you're drawing in the line using the batten against the nails, make sure it extends to this mark and gives you a smooth transition.
For the bottom of the keel, measure along the reference line 4-5/8" past station 13. The final nail is driven in at this point, one inch above the reference line. On the plans, they show that that point as 3" but don't clearly show that they mean it's 3" from the top of the 1X12.
I copied this from my photo copy that I made for my plans a few years ago when I built my Weekender. I hope it is helpful. How is the Vacationer going?

(10-16-2012, 07:16 PM)HerschelPayne link Wrote:The end of the keel is located 5-5/8' past station 13 at the very top edge of the 1x12. Make a mark at this point, and when you're drawing in the line using the batten against the nails, make sure it extends to this mark and gives you a smooth transition.

Greetings Herschel,

I disagree. Placing the nail at the top edge of the plank will introduce a kink in the top edge of the keel, so the bottom of the hull will not lay flat on the end of the keel and neither will the triangular deadwood that supports the transom.

The measurements for Stations #11, #12, #13, and the End of the Keel are ...

[table]
[tr][td][/td][td]Station#11[/td][td][/td][td]Station#12[/td][td][/td][td]Station#13[/td][td][/td][td]EndOfKeel[/td]
[/tr]
[tr][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td]2-11/16"[/td][td][/td][td]3-3/8"[/td][td][/td][td][/td]
[/tr]
[tr][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td]
[/tr]
[tr][td][/td][td][/td][td]11/16"[/td][td][/td][td]11/16"[/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td]
[/tr]
[/table]

It's pretty clear that the hull bottom has a straight run towards the transom rising 11/16" vertically for every 12" horizontally. Since 5-5/8" is about half of 12", ~Y ought to be about half of 11/16", or a hair less than 11/32".  So Y = 3-3/8" + 11/32" or about 3-11/16".

The text accompanying the drawings in the plans says to just let the batten run out straight past Station #13, which should land you square on that 3-11/16" mark, and in any case would guarantee a straight top for the triangular deadwood to sit on.

The fact is that there is an error in the plans at that location and the numbers just don't add up. There is no dimension nor any offset past Station #13 that can be labeled with 3". It is a typographical error.

The plans as published ...



This makes more sense ...



I worked it all out geometrically here ... Station13.html

But none of that matters for a model.


Dave,

When you lay out the keel for a model, you have the luxury of cutting the keel from a single piece of plywood instead of piecing it together from a dozen planks. Just let the top edge of the rear of the keel run long by a scale foot and skip the triangular support for the transom at the end for now.

Then attach the hull bottom to the keel, followed by the front bulkhead and the deck, taking care that the center-lines of all of the parts match up. Then you can bend the transom into place with all of the fun that will entail with simultaneously bending the corners of the hull bottom up and the corners of the deck down to meet the curved transom.

Now you can go back and fit the triangular deadwood between the sloping transom and the top of the keel making sure that the rear edge is vertical. Once that glue is dry, hack off the long extension of the keel to match. Done!

The danger in this approach is that it is easier to end up with a hull slightly racked around a tilted transom because the triangular deadwood is not there to help line up center-lines until it is too late. But with a little care, everything will be square.

Cheers,
Tom

Thanks, Tom.  I had forgetten that you had worked out the station 13 problems and posted the answers on your website.

Dave

Thanks Tom. I'm glad that everything will now work out with a good solution.
Dave, best of luck with the build.

Happy to be helpful.

I trust we will see photos ?

It will be fun to see the hull sitting on the dining room table as the build progresses.

Eventually you will start to think about rigging, and it will suddenly occur to you that you need 1/4 scale hardware for pulleys and such. So check out http://www.proctor-enterprises.com. They specialize in museum scale WWI aeroplanes for R/C flight. My favorite is the Albatross DVa ...



If you look closely you will see that all of the rigging on the airplane is functional ...



... and that is accomplished with straps ...



... tiny turnbuckles ...



... and pulleys ...



The above pulley has a sheave diameter a tad larger than 1/4", which would make a nice 1/4 scale version of the 1" pulleys we use for rigging the Weekender. They are not cheap, but look fabulous and would enable you to rig for radio control if you want to take your model sailing.

Hardware page ... http://www.proctor-enterprises.com/produ...rdware.htm



Cheers,
Tom