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I just got back after three days and two nights in Voyageurs Park.  I had originally planned that this would be my primary cruising waters, and this initial trip confirmed it.  Off hand I can't remember when I've been in a more beautiful setting.  The lakes are big enough that it takes some time to sail the length of one, and with enough islands to keep you confused all day.  For sure, bring a good map.  If you stay long enough to need to resupply, you can sail most of the way into the town of Ash river for just about anything you might need.  The park is a water based park with virtually no land access.  There are no fees, and no permits except for the one you write yourself so they can keep track of how many people actually use the place. 

I set out to make this a shake down cruise, so I intended to stay on board as much as possible.  I've learned that weekender isn't the best beach cruiser so I anchored out both nights.  When I left the landing the wind was light at best and I needed to beat into it so I didn't make too much headway for a while.  After a couple hours fiddling with the breezes, it started to build and we went sailing.  I made a downwind run toward a long narrow bay that I figured would keep me safe from any wind changes during the night, and right at the mouth blew a jibe in the middle of a particularly strong gust which I am still trying to figure out how that happened.  I got into it just the same and found that it was too narrow to maneuver under sail so I motored deep into it until I found a very narrow creek mouth to tuck into.

I found that my lousy anchors would hold pretty well in loon s**t and lilly pads.  So once hooked down I set about making camp on board.  I knew that weekender is pretty nice to sleep on board, but I was surprised that I could stay on board for more than a day pretty comfortably.  In some ways I found it to be more convenient to do things on board than in a campsite.  For example, cooking and eating is much easier on board than sitting in the dirt of a campsite.  I jerry rigged a mosquito screen over the companion way and slept bug free all night. 

The next day I sailed to windward up the lake until it was time to explore in the opposite direction.  The downwind run back to the landing took no time at all so that I ended up in Ash River around lunch time.  One of the things I like about cruising as opposed to wilderness canoe camping is the ability to sit in a bar and have lunch if one is handy.  I had come to the park with woefully little water, so I bought a half gallon of gas and a gallon and a half of water.  In the three days I was there I used a total of half a gallon of gas, but I wanted to be sure I had plenty if things changed.  The dock attendant was laughing the whole time about the record amount of gas I bought. 

The wind died completely by the time I left Ash River, so I motored out and went exploring under power.  Good thing too.  There is no way I would have been able to handle the boat, the wind, the traffic, and read a map all at the same time.  Namakan Lake is one of the most beautiful and confounding places on earth.  I felt like I was in a corn maze.  There is enough room to manuever a sailboat, but not much more and you can end up in a deadend real easy and often.  I spent the rest of the afternoon getting lost and finally ended up in a small lagoon anchored out in the lilly pads in about two and a half feet of water.  The scenery all around was spectacular.  I was completely protected from wind and wave in a place that no one would notice.  Again I had a relaxing night on board waking to complete calm and silence.  That is until the fishermen fanned out going after walleyes.  I don't mind motorboats when I'm sailing.  The only problem I have had with  them is when they try to be nice to me.  When they power down and come off plane they create enormous breaking wakes that can  be a hassle to manage. 

The VHF reported that there was no chance for wind so I motored back to the landing at the slowest speed I could get away with.  At the landing it took forever to pack up because everyone wanted to see the boat and talk about how it worked out for me up there.  I could see the wheels spinning in some of their heads and wouldn't be surprised to see more sailboats the next time I go up there.  When I drove away I wasn't done.  I'll be heading back there the first chance I get. 

Al Stead
weekender Jumping Duck

There is no way I can communicate to you just how envious I am reading this.  What a marvelous undertaking.

Thanks for taking the time to share your experience, Al.  My guess is you could spend the rest of your life sailing in that park, and always find new places to explore.

Yeah  Bill, you got that right. 

They say there is 600+ miles of shoreline just in the park, not to mention the adjacent lakes.  I only scratched the surface the tinyest bit.  I haven't mentioned the big lake.  Rainey Lake alone has hundreds of miles of shoreline.  This is a gunkholer's paradise. 

When the federal govt. decided to create Voyageurs they got a ton of resistence from the locals because they thought that it would be just like the BWCA.  Fortunately, they didn't go that route.  The locals are now big fans of the park because it doesn't have all the restrictions that the canoe country has.  The feds are a bit disappointed that the park is so underused.  I can vouch for that.  I didn't see a single designated campsite being used the whole time I was there.  I won't probably use any of the campsites myself, but they look first rate.

I intend to sail across  the country, but I won't feel compelled to start that until I have learned my way around Voyageurs first.  It's going to take a while.

Al

In the last 30 years, attendance to state and federal parks has dropped over 80%! It will not be long before these lands get sold off and condos get put in.

Sounds like a great adventure, way to go.

Great read.  This kind of thing keeps me working on the boat!

When I was working on the Duck, I spent most of my break time sitting in the cockpit imagining what it would be like to sail those lakes.


I don't think the feds have it completely right.  There are a lot of fishermen that use the facility as day use.  I don't think there was another over night visitor besides myself that was not a family group.  It looked to me that pretty much all the houseboat rentals available were out and about.  As I said before, the local business people are pretty happy with how things turned out.  I've never been in a national park that had the wholesome feel to it that this one does.  I guess my fear is that it will get popular and they will have to clamp down on the regulations just to protect the resource. 

Anyway, I'm off to the boundary waters to visit the gates of heaven for a respect that has been too long delayed.  It is a pain in the butt to get in, and the trip is a pain in the shoulders, but you have to do what you have to do, and I would'nt have it any other way.

Al