BYYB Forums

I have 2 questions:

1. What is the rule of thumb for placement of the oar locks in relationship to your body, when seated for rowing? :?: :?:

2. How long should I make the oars for rowing a Weekender? :?: :?:

After 2 months of moving and getting a house ready to sell I’m back in the boat building mode.

Kayakarl

http://www.shawandtenney.com/wooden-rowing-oars.htm

Food formula and illustrations.

Biggest challenge on Weekender is finding a good place to sit. On the hatchway is a bit constraining by the builhead. So you almost need to drop a seat in behind it across the cockpit seating.

How about adding a bridgedeck or going with a single sculling oar stowed on the boom. Lin and Larry Pardey have written so good articles on sculling, I'm sure you could find something with a google search.

Thanks for coming by, it was good to see you.

there was an article in the Gaffrig on that very subject from the Pardys. Hopefully we can get the magazine back up on the new board and you can read it.

Keith

Good information in this article from Wooden Boat Mag. as well on sculling.

http://councill.home.mindspring.com/sbjo...cull1.html

Here is a good simple set of oars you can make yourself.

http://www.bateau.com/free/simple_oars.html

Easy to store oars on either side of the main boom. Couple simple brackets to hold the blades near the foreward end of the boom and a simple velcro tie to hold up the hand grips and they are secure. The additional weight on the boom is a bonus rather than a bad thing under most wind conditions.

According to the plans for the original weekender which was designed to use oars as an additional mode of power the oarlocks are located 54 inches forward of the stern. Unfortunately I only have partial plans and don't know how long the oars would be. :?

Kayakark: I am like all the rest of this bunch I don't know eather. I would borrow a set of Angies dingie oars and see which way I needed to go from there. :wink: Glad to hear you are able to see the light at the end of the tunnel on the move. Bud.

Well now if the oarlocks are located 54" forward of the stern, that would make the 1/2 the width of the Weekender at the deck about 33 1/2".

Add 2" to that to determine the inboard length of the oar from the oarlock.

33.5 + 2.0 = 35.5/7 = 5"+ for a multiplyer.

Overall length of the oar is 25 times the multiplyer or 25 X 5 = 125"

125" = 10' 5" for total oar length.

The rear edge of the seat should be at least 8" forward of the oarlock for comfortable movement when rowing.

That would indicate a drop in (seat) board that would set just against the bulkhead and rest on either side on the cockpit seats. I would raise that seat to at least the height of the bulkhead hatch opening and perhaps a couple inches higher with a cushion to present a better angle on the oars to row. But then I'm farily tall at 6' 1". Shorter height may want to raise it even more than that.

I believe that Richard Frye had oars on his Weekender and read somewhere that he used them quite frequently. I know that Mike in Alaska has oars on his Vacationer and has used them for a long time. Mike Henderson in Oregon has oars on his Weekender which he launched last summer, but I don't know if he has used them or not. I have made up 9' 9" oars to use on my Weekender but am a little concerned that they may be too short. Fortunately they are easy to make so I can make a longer set if I need them.

One of our original members - Adam Plourde has a web page on rowing his Weekender with 6 ft oars at http://webcdi.com/boats/rowingarticle.php

What about using these as connectors? Would they be strong enough?

Image courtesy Lee Valley

Quote:How about adding a bridgedeck or going with a single sculling oar stowed on the boom. Lin and Larry Pardey have written so good articles on sculling, I'm sure you could find something with a google search.

Thanks for coming by, it was good to see you.

Or as the Norseboat 17.5 does, make a boom that is an oar, and is easily removablewith loose footed sail.