I'm ready to install bulkheads and transom on my Vac. I also plan to modify the cabin, so that the side walls have a 10 degree tilt throughout, not the 35 degree angle in the front called for in the plans. I have a question about the placement of the forward bulkead. The plans call for the aft face of the foreward bulkhead to be flush with the cutout for the cabin on the deck. If placed there, how do you later cut the 35 degree angle needed for the cabin deck gussets? I would think moving the forward bulkhead forward a bit would be a better idea. I took a picture of the underside of my deck. The magenta line is where the plans call for the forward bulkhead to fall. Is that correct? If so, how can you add a gusset angled at 10 degrees, much less one of 35 degrees as called for in the plans?
Dave
Hi,
It's been about thirty years since I've seen a Vacationer, so a few more recent builders are going to have to chime in here with more up-to-date thoughts. However: The cabin sides are held pretty well by the deck and if you're using epoxy (which I think, as it looks like it in the pic), you could probably just taper the gusset to nothing at the very centerline of the bulkhead, and when you epoxy the cabin sides in place, an exterior fillet at the deck (probably a good idea anyway), combined with the interior bonds along the gussets and at the bulkhead (minimal there, but something) will all combine to hold everything as it should be.
I look forward to reading what more recent builders write...
Mike
Dave,
As Mike suggested, the gussets don't extend the full width. I shaped a filler piece for the top-side after the cabin sides were in place.
The only bulkhead issue I came up with was at the rear of the cabin. The wings on the bulkhead seemed to hold the top deck too high so it was not possible to get a clean sheer-line on the hull sides and I wound up with sort of an "S" shape instead of the simple arc I had envisioned. I also seemed to come up quite short at the top of the transom and the rear edge of the top deck had to be cut several inches to fit. I had to shorten the lazarette hatch as a result.
John
Hi Dave,
just tried to send pics via your pers msg but couldn't add them for some reason so here they are.
As you will observe, I used the 'whole tree' method of building up chunky carlins and headers (I used more of the recycled oregon I had) then trimming fairly approximately with a circular saw followed by a bit of rasping and planing to get the angles near enough. I then forced and screwed and glued the cabin sides on - took a bit of heaving at the forward end where the curve is greatest but I got there to my satisfaction. The outside deck/cabin side joint was then epoxied over with a bit of dynel and a little thickened coving to produce a nice (I hope) watertight seal and bond.
I hope this is of some help to you but be aware that I wasn't (obviously!) going for a cabinetmaking finish!
Have fun and let's see some more photos too!
Cheers
Gerrard
Hi John,
I have just read your comment above and was interested (and a bit relieved!) to see that you had the same issue at the transom I had with the sheer line being held up at the rear cabin bulkhead...I'm still not sure how my rub rails are going to look as they don't run nice and smooth from bow to stern; there's a definite 'hump at the rear cabin bulkhead. We'll see - do you have a picture of your final sheer line?
Cheers
Gerrard
Thans for the photos, Gerrard. Here is a picture of the forward bulkhead. Where exactly did you place Edge B on the forwardmost panel joiner? What did you do with Tab A? I can't tell from the photos. Anyone else have problems with this placement decision?
Dave
Sorry, should have mentioned that I changed my bulkhead a little as I made it up from left over ply and butt joined it in the middle with a large ply joiner that you can see on the photo. As for' tab A', I cut this off and used the joiner top as a seat for the cabin side to sit on...hope that's a bit clearer for you and good luck.
like the progress photos; that's a pretty neat floor you have there!
Cheers
Gerrard
Did anyone notice that on the plans, the cutting direction on the forward bulkhead calls for 23 degrees on one side and 20 degrees on the other?
Am I reading this wrong?
Another thing, The materials list calls for 8 sheets of 1/2 inch ply. The floor takes 4. Each bulkhead requires it's own sheet, plus, then there is the deck. More than 8 sheets so I've got to buy some more. How many sheets do you calculate of 1/2 inch are required?
Gerrard: It looks like the joiner you used for the forward bulkhead is flush with the deck cutout for the cabin. Right? I have another question: The 2 side panel joiners on the deck appear to sit down on the wings of the cabin bulkhead, instead of just the deck itself. They seem to be in the way, or were they designed that way? Do the joiners need to be notched or removed?
Dave
Herschel: You are right about the error in the angles at the fore bulkhead. I measured the true angle, 21 degrees and cut that on both sides. On dryfitting it worked perfectly. As to plywood, the plans call for 12 sheets of 1/2" ply. I used 8 sheets for the bulkheads, transom and hull bottom, rudder box and miscellaneous, but I used 3/8" ply for the deck (3 sheets). When you cut out the deck, use this link. The plans are in error as printed and you won't be able to cut out the deck with only 3 sheets if you use the printed plans.Â
http://www.byyb.org/forum/index.php?topic=2142.0
Dave