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After 27 months of work, I launched my Pocket Cruiser yesterday. It was gusty and the crew (my wife and two teenage children) were inexperienced (the captain only slightly less so) but we had a great time and spent nearly 4 hours on the water. We launched in Lake Nockamixon, which is in eastern Pennsylvania and popular with sailors.

I wished for lighter winds as I worked to understand the rigging and capabilities of a flat bottomed boat, but when everything and everybody was working properly, we really moved. It was a remarkable day in many ways.

There were a few small glitches. The most serious: A turnbuckle for one of the stays unscrewed itself mid-lake and I had to quickly lower the sail and with help from my son screw it back in before the mast broke. Fortunately, I used very strong hinges for the tabernacle, so disaster was averted.

Most annoying minor design flaw: I don't like the Stevenson's design for the rudder. It's not weighted, as you know, and stays down by pulling on a line. But when the line goes slack, the rudder floats up and if I tie off the line too securely, it is hard to release in an emergency (sudden shallow water, for example).

My biggest complaint was that the boom sits too low. It really gets in the way of the cockpit. I cannot raise the gooseneck at this point without making a new mast, but I'm wondering if I can recut the sail at a sharper angle so it rises higher over the cockpit. Is there a reason why this cannot/should not be done?

During lulls, my wife and son shot some video, which I just put together into a 5 minute Youtube clip. You won't learn much about sailing, but it does reveal the goofy dynamics of my wonderful and very patient family. Here's the link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_dFziSts8c

I wasn't able to attach a photo of the finished boat, but I do have pictures on my blog: http://buildaboat.wordpress.com

Hi Paul, nice job on your boat. I do like the colors and it looks like you have done a nice job of it overall. As far as the rudder problem, if you go to "Assembling Rosebud" on this forum you will see in the very last part a solution to your problem. It's easy and cool to use. Good luck, Warren ;D

Warren, Your comments are kind, but compared to your work, my PC is still a raft. I rushed through the rigging and have not yet started any finish work on the cabin. I'll turn my attention to the details now that I know that my boat will, in fact, float and sail.

For the rudder, are you referring to the quick release clips from Duckworks? That looks like a simple and elegant solution.

What did you use for mast hoops? I cut PVC piping, but they don't easily fit over my hinges (even through I used the largest diameter pipe I could find at my home center). I'd prefer something nicer, without having to pay for high end wooden hoops.

Congratulations! Launch day is always filled with problems, it's perfectly normal. How would you know what to sort out other wise.

You can weight the rudder, use an auto release cleat or just tighten up the pivot bolt so the rudder blade is a snug fit, so it stays down unless mashed into something.

Hoops are about the worst sail attachment method devised. Use lasing or sail track (5/8") as much more accommodating attachment methods. Use the Phil Bolger lasing technique, as it's the least damaging and less likely to bind setup. If you can't find this drawing on the net, send me an email and I'll send you a jpg of it.

Always uses rigging "keepers" on you adjustable parts (turnbuckles for example),as they keep you from losing the rig and they're cheap. Even just some rigging tape will do in a pinch (not very long).

Paul to the rescue... again. Thanks! Regarding lasings: I just stumbled across a link you posted on another forum about this topic. It advocated use the "forth and back" method (http://www.gaffrigpage.com/detail-pages/the-main-sail/). Does that make sense for a PC? It looks much easier than hoops, which do feel cumbersome. Is this also Bolger's method?

I need to look into rigging keepers and tape. I don't know about these products.

I thought I was mostly done with the boat, but I realize I'm just starting the next phase...

Paul

Hey Paul, the other Paul is usually right about this stuff. However I made my hoops from leftover scrap Okume plywood and epoxy, they are large enough that they work easily and with no trouble. The thing to remember is that your boat, having built it yourself will be subject to constant upgrades as you find better solutions while using it. Mine is 7 yrs and I have changed many things for the better as you will. Warren

Hey, that's a good idea, too. You just cut out round hoops, no steam bending, I assume?

I'm sure my boat will also be a constant work in progress. Maybe my PC will look as nice as yours in a decade or two.

Paul,  I loved your video.  I wished more builders would post to Youtube, it really inspires others...

    Hoops,  Here is what I did, used wooded beads from an old car seat backing on 1/8" stainless wire, works well and looks saltyyyyy.

                                                  Keith W

The "forth and back" method is an old way and not at all like the Bolger method. It's less likely to bind, compared to more traditional lasing methods, but it's not as good as the Bolger method.

What I most don't like about hoops, is how much noise and damage they do to the mast and that they don't let the sail flake well on the boom. They (as well as other methods) hold the sail too far off the mast which just kills sail drive (10% to 20% depending on how far aft of the mast the luff is). This is why I'm a track guy, the luff is right against the mast, where pressure bleed off can be minimized. On a rig so hampered with windage (most gaffers), every little bit helps.