One of the places I'm thinking of for a build site will require a Hiab lift up and over a fence, but I need to know what an average weight would be for the boat, so I can figure out the moment arm at max boom length. If anybody's had a chance to get an accurate weight (+/- 50 lbs) on their boat, I'd appreciate knowing, along with any changes due to mods you've made. TIA,
-Brian
I think about two kegs of beer should just about get your boat up and over the fence :lol: . At what stage will you be moving the boat?
Somewhere around 800 lbs.
Scott has it about right, though I can usually get things rolled, turned or hefted onto something for a lot less then a couple of kegs. I've found a BBQ with a few six packs more then adequate to get things tossed about by my burgeoning bicep buddies. I lift, roll, remove and place boats on trailers, blocking, etc. several times a year, without resorting to my hoist (which is usually tied up with a motor or other heavy object lift)
The Vacationer is the mega yacht of the fleet, but not real heavy (empty, sans the rig, motor, batteries, tanks, etc.) Much depends on how many modifications and changes from the plans have been incorporated into your build.
When I did the number crunch on BarnicalJim's boat (likely one of the heaviest Vacationer builds) it's pushing a ton (which isn't that difficult to lift actually), but a less then a half a ton would be reasonable (completed hull, deck, cockpit, etc.) for an average build. Six healthy guys, drooling over the ice chilled beer sticking up out of the cooler (placed on the other side of the fence) can the job done is a surprisingly short amount of time.
An "A" frame or "gin" pole affair can also be employed, as can a slide (some 2 x 8's on edge) or rollers on a ramp (short lengths of electrical conduit and heavy plywood over slopping saw horses). The rollers offers the least amount of resistance, but the boat can get away from you on the down hill side (I've learned this the hard way) without some sort of "preventer" (rope to limit travel) attached to the boat. The slide is reasonably easy to figure out, being a ladder sort of thing, ramping up, over and down the other side and make it stouter then you think it needs to be (I've learned this the hard way too) I like to use gin poles to move things short distances or heights. This is little more then a thick pole with tackle attached to the upper end (which the boat will be slung from) some guiding ropes and preventer ropes. Mounted at and angle (usually in the direction you want he boat to move) you pick up the weight of the boat with the tackle (come-a-long or blocks, etc.) then you "jack" the gin pole by pulling on the rope that will stand it up straighter. With the boat now in the air, the guide ropes can be used to swing it a short distance, then placed down and the pole is repositioned. It's a lot harder to describe then do. An "A" frame is pretty much as it sounds, a 2 x 8 (4 x 4, whatever) "A" is cobbled together and braced (one on each side of the fence maybe) and tackle is rigged to the boat and the frame tops. Lift, swing, drop, reposition, lift swing, drop, reposition again, etc. until she's where you want. This is the most stable way, but will require some building of "A" frames.
A rented back hoe or front end loader can make it very short work. The guy across the street from me has a big tractor with a loader bucket attachment, which I often use to lift up to about 2 tons. With a sling and some logging chain, I can snatch a boat off it's trailer, move it around and place it just about anywhere I want, in minutes. Yep, the rental cost will hurt a little, but it's done with such ease and security. Tip: big straps, hefty chain and go slow at first (I've learned the hard way on this one also) Dropping your pride and joy, is a surprisingly easy thing to do, as is getting the boat swinging out of control (basing into the loader or tractor) making big holes and stuff, because you took off too fast and things very quickly get out of hand.
Sorry, I thought you were talking about a Weekender.
Sorry, I should've clarified. It'll be a vacationer w/o rig, outboard, batteries, or ballast. Basically just what's on paper. Thanks for all the info
There shouldn't be much difference in weight between the Weekender and Vacationer in stock stripped down state. I figure the weights on mine was 800-1000 lbs., before and after glassing respectivly.
If your slinging it, make sure the Cof G is right, and maybe attach the straps so they don't slip.
The CG is a few feet aft of midship and will be easy to find, once you begin the lift. Shortly after you start lifting, picking up some of the weight, the bow or stern will lift first. Move the straps in the other direction along the hull, until you find the happy place where she seems to come up all at once.
Rather then nailing or screwing straps to the hull, just tie them together with a length of rope (along the keel), so they can't spread apart, which can screw up the balance you just worked to find, or worse slip out and crunch the boat when it lands.
I like straps because of the adjustability, but ramps, where pushing and dragging (cussing and screaming too) gets it done is a very safe way to go with a flat bottom boat even with the keel hanging down. Sliding her on a piece of carpet over the ramp will be quite gentle and easy to do. You just have to make up a ramp (or two) to clear the fence. Rollers can make the effort required much lower, but it needs to be highly controlled. Maybe one roller in forward areas of the keel and dragging on the chine (carpet thingie) would provide enough resistance to prevent a major unexpected slide, but still decrease the dragging effort a lot.
This is why I love George's tractor, it's fast, safe and lots of control. It's worth renting or borrowing a back hoe or loader.
A stock Weekender (hull only) built to plans should be about 600 pounds, the Vacationer a few more hundred, if the designed planking schedules and scantlings are met.