I've made up a couple of prototype wooden cleats for the Weekender. Â I'm using mahogany. Â Both are made of 3/4" stock/ Â The larger is 6 inches long and 1-1/2" high. Â Each horn is 2" long. Â The smaller is 4-12" long, 1-1/4" high with horns 1-1/2" long. Â Is this all I'll need or would a few larger (say 8") cleats be needed?
Dave
Assuming you grain orientation can handle loads, mahogany isn't the best wood to use for a cleat, though they'll be pretty varnished up. Fortunately most of the loads on your Weekender are fairly light.
The dimensions you've provided will be okay for these light loads, but generally wooden cleats are more "muscular" or bulky, particularly if the stock is brittle (like mahogany).
I know wooden cleats look cool, but a handful of cheap plastic cleats will take up less room and are nearly strong enough to lift the boat with, plus don't cost much.
Give them the "good swat" test. Smack them firmly with the business end of a healthy hammer (22 ounces at least), across to the grain. If they survive, they'll probably serve well.
And welcome aboard . . .
Paul: I've got some 1" stock (actual, not nominal). That would beef up the cleats substantially. The grain is horizontal...I think it should be OK.
Dave
How about using a wood like iron wood for cleats? I have a lot of jet black, almost plastic looking wood that somebady gave me and called it ebon wood, that is very hard to cut would something like that be a better choice? Actually it is so black it would look like plastic so why not use plastic.
I've used Elm with good results. My younger brother gave me a 4" thick slab of American Elm a number of years ago that I slice bits off of from time to time.
Elm has a very interlinked grain and the sapwood (don't use the core) is actually pretty rot-resistant. It won't take paint or varnish all that well though so I have to repaint the cleats every year.
Wood cleats are fun to build and I have used them on other boats, they worked fine and never broke. They were red oak and like Paul said, loads on the weekender aren't that serious. If you're worried, keep a few plastic ones on board with a screw driver (you should anyway). Enjoy.
I love the way mahogany looks. I've got some elm (plan to use it, oiled, for blocks) but I think the straight grain mahogany should be OK. 3/4" or 1" thick? The 3/4" looks better, I think.
Dave
American Elm is one of the better choices with its interlocking grain. The wood isn't brittle like mahogany and you are less apt to loose one of the horns under load. Where Mahogany will split along the grain, elm will not. That is one of the more obvious reasons to use elm for the shells of blocks as well as any other fabricated piece that could split under load.
Barry i have been looking for elm for quite some time, it is not urgent or anything but for future block making and such. Where in the world to find elm. I have gone to spme local yards and such I say hey ya have any elm? and they look at me with quizical gazes. lol, Kinda like, "whats that thar vern?".
is there an online source that I may be missing?
thanx mate.
Brian.
Brian: Â Here in Wisconsin red elm is plentiful and easy to find. Â We're a long way from SC though! Â Try the internet. Â Here's a link to an EBay auction of 8' lengths of 4/4 S&B red elm in 20 BF lots. Â Looks good. Â Shipping will be a bit, but not outrageous. Â I've purchased wood on EBay before and it's worked out fine.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ROUGH-Red-Elm-Lumber...27ad631602
Dave