BYYB Forums

I'm planning winter projects.  I'd like to outfit my Weekender with hand made rope stropped wooden blocks.  I have some elm on hand, so I'm authentic there,  but I need some input as to the size of the finished blocks.  I'm thinking 2"X4"X3" for the common single block with 5/16" rope.  Has anyone built their own blocks?  What works for finished size.

Dave

I did make one of my own block i made it out of mahogany as i wish i had some elm, Not sure about the size to load ratio but heres a pic of it.




Here is a link to the old byyb gaff rig magazine article on rope stroped blocks,

http://www.byyb.org/gaff-rig/gaff-rig-2005-october/

Check it out it is really informative. Just click on the table of contents.

Brian.

The link above doesn't work fully, try this . . .

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/02/arti...blocks.htm

I talked with Derek about his stropped blocks a few years ago. This was his first attempt, so scale, proportions and shapes hadn't been worked out. He was pleased about how they came out.

Traditionally shaped blocks have more "roundness" to them then shown in this article. They also have a tear drop shape worked into them in when view from the front. HDPE could be used for lightly loaded blocks, which is cheaper then UHMWPE. Both materials are very easy to work.

Stropped blocks look nice and can be made to work better then the ones used in the 1800's, but they aren't nearly as light or as free running as modern blocks. On a modern interpretation of a classic gaffer a few years ago, I made wooden cheeks to fit over modern block guts. Basically, the ball bearing sheaves, stainless straps and block bodies where covered with a wooden shell and screw together, hiding the modern block within them. The owner thought this was cool as sin because a few of the blocks were ratcheting and they still ratcheted. Something to think about. I'm not sure how you'd hide (make look old and wooden) a fancy fiddle block, cascading tackle traveler car or swiveling cam cleat yet, but I'm working on it.

What a really cool Idea Paul I think i am gonna give that a shot

If you take a modern moderately priced bearing block and flick the sheave, it'll "run" for a few minutes. If you flick a home made block's sheave, it'll run for a few seconds. This doesn't seem like a big deal, until you're in very light air and the sheet just "lays" there in big slack bends off the tackle. It's not running out, it's just hanging there. Low friction blocks, especially in tackle can ease your effort, which in low or high wind situations is desirable.

I had great success fabricating some blocks for Spiritwind from Eastern Elm.  They were fun to do, not difficult, once I got a size and basic outline laid out.  Used UHMW for the sheeves,  (both 3/8" and 1/2"), then used a microplane to cut the groves in the sheeves while the sheeves were turning slowly in the drill press.  Brass rod (1/4") for them to turn on with the holes for it drilled 1/64" oversized and very thin teflon slip sheets cut into washers for either side of the sheeves to lessen drag on the blocks themselves.  I epoxied 3/4" elm boards together to make up 1 1/2" thick material and then drilled out the openings for the sheeves with a drill press.  Squared up the sides of the holes with a good sharp chisel.  I used a flat plate precision sanding disc to sand the end radiuses and then cut the grooves for the rope grommets  with a 3/8" round microplane.  Finished shaping them with a random orbital sanding disc to final shape and then boiled them in linseed oil until they wouldn't absorb any more oil.  Let them dry off for about 3 weeks hanging in a electric dryer set at about 90 degrees.  Then buffed them with a felt wheel.  I've left a pair of them haning out in the weather for two years now and they haven't needed any attention other than a few drops of linseed oil this summer to restore the finish.

I made two differing sizes of singles, a couple of singles with beckets, enough doubles for my needs, along with several others for specialized uses plus a double cheek block to bring the main and peak halyards back to the cabin roof and have them run back to the cockpit on the roof between the grab rails and the hatch rail.

Grommets were fabricated from 5/16" and 3/8"  English braids 3 strand, some with brass thimbles and then tarred marline for siezing it.

http://byyb.org/gallery/displayimage.php?album=7&pos=15

I too have been attempting to somehow make a hexaratchet block for my main sheet look like the others while still functional. 

Nice ball bearing sheeves would be good if you were on a larger, higher performance boat and needed them but these have proven to be highly functional, don't hang up, don't get tangled up and with a little care should last a long time.  Simple care is a coat now and then with boiled linseed oil.  Good line makes a huge difference in how well and smoothly they work.

I liked the information from Derek Walters article but got more from "The Marlinespike Sailor" that was useful for me as well as a great line drawing to base things upon.  The fashioning of the Grommets takes a little practice but isn't all that difficult after a couple attempts. 

Great winter projects.

Ya know Barry, I have that book, It's been a while since I looked at it but I think it is time to revisit it lol.

Barry:  Great post, and I loved the photos.  Did you strop the block with the same diameter rope the block is designed to handle, or something larger?  Do you happen to have any "under construction" photos of your seating modification?  I'm to that point in my build.

Dave

Yes, the rope used for the grommets is the same as the block is designed to handle.  I have a couple that use 1/4", the majority use 5/16" and the blocks for the jib sheets  and the main sheets are 3/8".   The jib sheet blocks are 3/8" because I use a Lapper rather than the standard jib.  Although I do have things set up so I can use the standard jib on a clubfoot when I reef down the main.

I made up two different fiddle blocks for the main sheet.  Neither of them are quite what I really want although they both work just fine.  Both of them are for 3/8" line.  

I do have some photos of the process of modifying the cockpit.  I also made up a drawing with some basic measurments.  Just having trouble getting them to upload to the forum.  I'm trying to get them to the Gallery so that a link can be entered in the forum.  I'll try to get that done.

The primary modification is the opening up of the back half of each side and closing off the front portion.  That was done at 18" back from the bulkhead on the top front edge of each seat. The standard top was cut to provide a one piece surface that formed the side shelves and came back to the lazerette to provide a support for the aft portion of the slat seats.  Otherwise the dimensions are pretty much the same as the plans.  With the slat seats sitting ontop of the standard height base, there is less room for the wheel clearance so I switched to a tiller.   I was planning on doing that anyway but this just initiated the change at this point instead.  The higher seating surface has made a significant change in comfort in addition to the slats giving a little as you move about.  That is really significant to the comfort.

Thanks for the input, Barry.  I'm looking forward to the drawing and photos.  Anything I can do to help, just e-mail me.  I could even give uploading to the forum a try, if you like!  It's getting colder here..upper 30's at nite, but I bought a kerosene heater for the garage, which really works!  28,000 BTU gets it warm in no time.  This should extend my building time into December.  January and February are for blocks and other indoor projects.  The garage is usally in the 30's or colder in winter.

Dave