1) Â Is there any usable solvent for mixed epoxy or resin and hardener individually? Â I'm not looking to thin it, just clean smears etc.
2) Â If I need to soak a piece to get a tight curve, can I epoxy glue the part while damp, or must it be completely dry? Â Since the hardening is a chemical reaction, I would think gluing while damp is OK.
Dave
Some people have had good results with household vinegar but acetone - if you're willing to put up with the fumes and handle it safely is the standard solvent.
I'm not an expert on bending wood and any attempts that I have made have failed horribly. BUT from what I understand it's actually the heat more so than the moisture that makes the wood bend. Since epoxy curing is a chemical reation as you already know, this would speed it up. The only thing the moisture would do to the epoxy is hurt it's ability to penetrate saturated wood - I think. Others know lots more about this than I do though and will hopefully chime in. What I actually ended up doing for the parts that needed a tight curve light the stringers at the stern of the Weekender and the coamings was to just use a larger piece of wood and make the compound cuts out of that.
(10-16-2009, 10:25 AM)Dave Blake link Wrote: [ -> ]1) Â Is there any usable solvent for mixed epoxy or resin and hardener individually? Â I'm not looking to thin it, just clean smears etc.
2) Â If I need to soak a piece to get a tight curve, can I epoxy glue the part while damp, or must it be completely dry? Â Since the hardening is a chemical reaction, I would think gluing while damp is OK.
Dave
White vinegar can be used to clean up epoxy on your hands on brushes, etc. Â
I'm unsure about damp but I would not. Â
Thanks, guys. I, too, have cut the tight curves on a bandsaw. The part I'm working on is the 1/4 thick trim at the bottom of the Weekender cabin trunk. It's a tight curve and I've snapped two pieces already. I think I'll try soking, then steaming with an iron, and finally clamping it in place wet, then let it dry. Acetone or vinegar it is! I can't believe I'm come this far without asking about an epoxy solvent!
Dave
You can cut kerfs in the back of your trim piece this will allow your trim a greater curve without breaking. fill the kerfs with epoxy and wood flour.Â
I have had some luck bending wood by forming some pieces of wood to the curve shape (making a mold). Then I boil towels and put them on the piece of wood I want to bend and use clamps to bend it around the mold I have made to the shape of the curve.Â
A process like this:
1-Boil a pot of water with two towels in it
2-put one boiling hot towel on the wood piece you want to bend
3-let it set a minute or so then pull that towel off and put it back in the boiling water
4-put a second boiling towel on the piece while the first towel reheats
5-repeat the process with the first towel
6-use clamps or whatever to start forcing the wood around the curve of the mold
7-continue switching towels until your are able to get the wood piece to bend to the shape you want.
I used this method to prebend the transom and some 1x2's that I prebent to fit the curve of the cockpit. I don't know if it will work for your applicaton but I was able to prebend the pieces, let then dry then glue and screw then in place. On the transom I left the mold piece in place while attaching the transom on the 1x2's I the curve stayed when I removed the molds.
Dave,
Use a heat gun to easily bend your tight curves. It works better than you could imagine and your wood remains dry. Keep the heat gun moving to avoid scorching the wood, take your time, don't rush it and the wood will become very pliable. Just be wary of any grain run out.
I've bent many a piece of wood this way when building kayaks.
Good luck!!
Ken
Thanks, all. I've used kerfing to bend the stringers on the lazarette top and my lazarette hatch frame. Filling the kerfs is OK, but not for the trim part inside the cabin. I had't thought of the heat gun! I'll give it a try. I wonder if moist wood bends easier with heat than dry? Any ideas? In model making I've bent thin strips of wood with a regular clothing iron. The moist heat works quickly. Same for thicker wood?
Dave
Dave
I built a steam box for steam-bending years ago, haven't used it since I was put onto the heat gun method. I just use dry heat. Just remember don't try to rush the process. I'm sure having the wood damp will compromise the epoxy bond to some degree, it may not cause it to fail completely, but it will not be as strong as it would otherwise be.
Ken
The hear gun sounds great. What type are you talking about? Something like the wifes hair dryer or something else? I think I will give that a try just as soon as you clue me to the type/brand of heat gun you recommend. I anticipate a couple of curved boards on a future project, my wife wants two decorative planters, and would like to experiment a bit.