It's turning cold in Pennsylvania and I sense that the boat building season is coming to a close. I am working on my Pocket Cruiser in an unheated garage and knew I would have to stop at some point. But I still want to get a few more pieces attached before winter really hits.
Here's my concern: I'm using plastic resin glue, which requires (I'm told) temperatures above 70 for curing. I'm looking at temps in the 50s to 60s for the rest of the month. Is it too risky to use this glue with these temps? I know that I can create a heated tent with plastic tarps and a space heater, but I'm always nervous leaving a heater running in the boat unattended, so I'd rather not do that.
Alternately, I'm considering Titebond III, which will cure at temps as low as 45 (according to the bottle). Since I finished the hull and am now working above the water line on the cabin and seats, would that be an option? I'd like to hear for anyone who has used Titebond. I like the stuff. It's very user friendly.
Finally, what about epoxy? I used some while building the bilge board boxes and mast box. Can it be used at lower temps?
Hi Paul! It's cold in Wisconsin, and day time temperatures have only been in the 40's. with upper 20's to low 30's at night. I work in an unheated garage, but by using an electric coil heater, I can bring the daytime temp up to about 60-65 or about 15 degrees above ambient temperature. I wouldn't try plastic resin in the cold. I've used Titebond 3 on other woodworking projects, but not a boat. It, too, sets best at warmer temperatures, and the glue must be kept from freezing. Epoxy is best. I use Marinepoxy from Bateau.com. Using the fast or medium hardener has the glue dried by the next day, even if the temperature dips into the upper 30's at night. Plus the squeeze out can be filleted in after gluing, and sanded after drying for a finished look. I thicken the epoxy with wood flour and silica 50/50 until peanut butter consistency. If you use medium hardener, you'll have a couple of hours of pot life.
Dave
You would be surprised what a couple of heat lamps under a tarp will do for the tempurature. Put the lamps under the boat or if up right inside. cover with a tarp.
Paul I think Dave is right on. The epoxy will do better hot or cold but cold there is no contest. The epoxy goes through a heat process anyway and will set and hold at much lower temp. The tarp will also help some even without the heat lamps. For a test you can glue a couple of peaces of scrap together and lay it outside and see how it is the next day. Bud
I use the oil filled heaters from Wal-Mart (I have 4 now, they're cheap). No open flame, no hot coils that can ignite fumes, etc. Placed under a tarp, which is propped over the work, it will easily keep temperatures where you need them.
Epoxy is the most reliable of the adhesives. It may take a while, but it'll eventually cure. Plastic resin and TiteBond III can be very compromised if not within their temperature window. This is less true of epoxy, where you can wait weeks if necessary, raise the temperature and it'll still cure.
Thanks, everyone. I have been using epoxy here and there and know it's the "best," so I might just use it full time as long as the temperatures are low.
I'm still curious about Titebond. Following some discussions at Duckworks, I learned that it's widely used by a faction of the boat building community. I think I will experiment with it on a smaller sailboat that I am building with my son.
Paul: I wouldn't hesitate to use Titebond III above the waterline and for non-structural applications. I used it on my boat to laminate mahogany for the rafters, rafter knees etc. The glue is an aliphatic resin, and is going to be subject to joint "creep". I'd personnally avoid it in highly stressed joints, the frame of the hull and below the waterline.
Dave
TiteBond III is not a structural adhesive. Epoxy doesn't like to stick to tit so if you use it and then want to epoxy something over it, you'll have issues. It's fine for little stuff and above the LWL, but be careful what you wish for, it could be a shot gun wedding.
I have had success with an epoxy marketed by Industrial Formulators called "Cold Cure", It worked well for me at slightly above freezing temperature.
Greg