BYYB Forums

Hey all.  It has been FOREVER since I have posted, worked on my boat, etc.  I painted my topside last night (Perfection Sno white).  I did not thin the paint and yes...I have drip marks despite my careful rolling and tipping.  Anyway, I plan on putting on a second coat followed by a third non-skid coat (in some areas).  I have 3 coats of primekote underneath.

Paint prep directions say to use 320 to 420 wet sand paper followed by wiping with Brushing reducer.

Unfortunately, I have some more sanding to do as I have drip marks, etc.  My gut says I will need 60 grit or 100 grit (palm sander) since that is what it took to level the underlying primekote.  Any suggestions? 

Also, should I also be using fiberglass solvent wash to clean after sanding followed by brushing reducer to clean, or just stick to brushing reducer?

60 is probably too aggresive.  I think I would start with 120. 

"It's a boat - not a piano".

Me - I used a wood rasp for a lot of my fairing.

- measure with micrometer
- mark with chalk
- cut with axe
- pund to fit
- paint to match

If you use a solvent to clean the surface and have any primer showing, it'll make a mess, trust me. Only use solvent (I never do) as a wipe down if the topcoat is continuous and unbroken., Wet sand, dry and tack rags are much safer on top coats.

When you have to get aggressive after a run or sag, you should "sneak" up on it with finer grits. You'll be sanding surrounding, unaffected areas as well as the run or sag, so if you go aggressive with the grit, you'll do more harm then good.

Also when paint is dry to the touch, it's not actually dry. You should know from smoothing previous coats, but make sure the paint is dry all the way through. Some oils can take over a week to fully cure.

I am not a paint expert but have been using Brightside on my boat.  I did a lot of sanding on the 3 layers of clear epoxy, over a layer of fiberglass and epoxy.  The lightest sand paper I used was 120.  Then I painted on a coat of primekote, sanded that with 120, painted on a coat of brightside, sanded that with 220 and put on one final coat of brightside.  No brush marks, drips or scratches showing through.  I didn't clean with solvents or use brush reducer.  The additional layers of epoxy allowed me to sand a bit longer then one coat would have. Perhaps that aided in getting the surfaces smooth?  Maybe it was beginners luck.

I think the trick is very thin layers of brightside.  It tends to run if you try and get it on thick enough to cover in one coat.  I used a roller and then tipped it in spots.  With temperatures above 80 I found the paint still soft after 4 days.  I think the data sheets say 5 days for a good cure.  The thicker the paint the longer it takes to cure.  I had some runs, down the side of a paint can, that were still wet inside after 2 weeks. 

I no doubtedly put the paint on too thick.  I plan on light sanding with 120 grit and thinning the next round of paint and apply it thin. 

Thanks for all the advice. 

Try it on a test board without thinner.  Just roll it on and work the paint with the roller until you the roller will no longer lay down new coverage and is actually picking paint back up some.  Tip where you had to use a brush instead of a roller if needed.  The places you used the roller should have no need of tipping.  I forget what Interlux recommends for dry time between coats but read their info and just wait that time out.  Sand lightly, if needed, and put another light coat on.  If you use thinner I would be very sparing with it.  

I poured paint from the can directly onto the flat areas I was painting.  Think about that... a nice BIG run of paint.  Then I just worked it with the roller until it was thinly spread out on the surface.  The only place I got a run was in the nose of the boat.  I had a smaller kid I hire paint that area as I could not fit in the front bulkhead cutouts to get at it.  He tried to put enough paint on to cover in one coat.  I had painted the floor, ceiling and one wall of the enclosed nose area before putting on the last side of the boat.  I was able to get at most of the interior nose to paint it but once it was enclosed I would have had to tape a roller and then brush to a 3 foot long stick to be able to paint the last inside wall myself.

My tale on painting with Brightside is:

On the first coat you should still see wood color in some areas.  Light wood color but still somewhat visible.  You should also have areas where the paint covers unevenly.

The second coat should still be applied lightly but will complete the job and those areas of wood or uneven coverage should not be visible.

I hope it wasn't just beginners luck on my part, and the suggestions I am making aren't a reflection of that, but I thought paint with Brightside was a breeze compared to most paints I have experienced.  

The single part polyurethanes are easy to paint with, but can go down on the thin side, which is intentional.

As everyone has mentioned, don't even try to apply it heavy enough for one coat coverage. The first coat should show primer tint everywhere. One reason to use primer is to offer a uniform surface for the top coats to lay on. The second coat will mostly cover the thinnest areas, but some areas will still remain with a translucent look. It seems the more you "work" these areas with a roller or brush, the worse you make it, so just hit it and move on. The third coat is the charm for these types of paints and a big difference is noticed. The gloss is brighter, the coverage is complete, color is deeper, etc.

When rolling, pick up paint in the tray evenly, then apply it in a 24" square "W" with one continuous motion. This applies the bulk of the paint on the roller to the area. Then go back and drag the paint with the roller, onto areas that haven't any yet. Now you have color on everything, but it's not even yet. A uniform set of stokes from top to bottom or side to side of the 24" square area you applied this paint, ending each with overlap into your "wet edge". Put down the roller and use a fairly dry foam brush and lightly tip off the area to remove stipple, again towards the wet edge. Hold the brush nearly vertical and use a light touch. Wipe the brush often to keep it on the dry side.

The newest polyurethanes do "lay down" nicely, almost without the need of tipping. On vertical work, it can benefit if you tip vertically to help prevent runs and sags. Horizontal brush strokes are more pleasing to the eye if they do happen to show up.

Painting is all about technique and materials, the more practice you have, the better you get.