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In an earlier post I noticed that Steve Goodman said he's rigged a jib furler. Now this is something I've always thought I would like on this boat, but never saw how you would accomplish it since the forestay is continually being taken down and put up again. So, Steve (and anyone else who has done this), if you read this, please share with us how you have this set up.
I think it is the best idea.  I use a rather expensive set up made with bronze, but there are cheaper ways to go.  Let me first say I have no stays, fore or otherwise. With a fitted forestay you could simply put the jib foot and roller drum just inside the stay on the bowsprit and run the halyard to it.  This is not a true reefing jib in this set up, but you never have to reef the jib anyway.  It is all out or all rolled up.  The jib needs a bolt rope sew into the leading edge with a loop on each end to take the halyard at the top and the drum at the bottom. This rope should be quarter inch and very low stretch.  On my experimental tarp jib, I simply duct taped this rope into the sail and it worked fine in the short term.

I also didn't rig the jib with a club foot so the sheets need to be worked each tack but this is no problem and actually can be a help in handling.  The jib is so small that it isn't a problem doing a tack and then sheeting it in once you have a free hand (or leaving it backed to help the tack if the water is choppy).  On my blog under "photos" you can see the furling drum:  http://web.mac.com/ryersonclark/Site_3/W..._rig..html

I think it is a very good idea to have this.
I will take a couple pictures next time I have the mast up but in the mean time, I will try to explain it with words.

Essentially the furler is a 1 inch diameter white PVC pipe with caps on both ends that spins on the forestay.

Start with a length of 1 inch PVC pipe that is the length of the luff of your jib plus an inch at the top for a cap and 5 inches or so at the bottom for the furler control line to wrap. I needed to use two pieces of pipe with a coupler in the middle to get one piece long enough.
Starting at the top, leave one inch for a cap and then drill a hole through the pipe to tie off the top of the jib.
Then measure down and cut a notch in the pipe for every jib shank (I think that's what they are called) (You know the clips that hold the jib to the forestay). The shanks will poke through the notch and clip on to the forestay. When you get to the bottom of the sail you must drill a hole to tie off the bottom grommet to the pipe as well.
Now thread the forestay through the pipe. Luckily the eyes on my forestay just barely fit through the inside diameter of the 1 inch pvc pipe.
Take an end cap that fits the pvc pipe and drill a 1/8 inch hole in it. Then cut a slot from the edge of the cap to the 1/8 inch hole. Slide the forestay through the slot so it sits in the 1/8 inch hole and then press the cap on the end of the pipe. Repeat this for the top and bottom of the pipe. You should now have a pipe that will spin on your forestay.
Attach the jib by tying off the top and bottom to the pipe and slipping the shanks through the notches you cut and clip them on to the forestay.
All that is left is to install the control line. You attach one end to the bottom grommet of the jib and then wrap it several times around the bottom of the pvc pipe and run it back to the cockpit.
When you pull the control line it spins the pvc pipe on the forestay and winds up the jib. Then just cleat off the control line.
To unfurl the jib, release the control line and pull on the jib sheet and the furler will "unspin" the jib and spin the control line.
I had to add a round piece of plastic on the bottom to stop the control line from slipping off the bottom of the pipe.

Okay, I just reread this post and it is clear as mud without pictures.
Here is the website that I stole the idea from.
http://www.geocities.com/felixthefish.ge...urler.html

He at least has a few pictures.

Feel free to ask questions and I will try to take a few pics tonight.

Steven.
I think furlers are great, but not used as reefing rollers. If the sail is just rolled up or unrolled completely, then it can be a nice thing to have aboard. Roller reefing is a different story.

Roller reefing gear needs to be really strong and well designed. The sail also needs to be designed for roller reefing. Even when it is, it's about the ugliest sail set you could ask for, just at a time when you need to control sail shape the most (in building winds).

In short, use a home made unit as a way of dousing the jib. If you need to get the jib down in building winds, then do so early (don't wait until it looks like it's about to blow out), because if you jam as you're rolling it up (not an uncommon thing, especially on home made units) you've got a sail you can't control, flapping in the breeze and a boat that is nearly out of control because the sail plan is out of balance.
That is a good point Paul on the type fitted to the forestay, never thought of that.  I don't have that worry as I can just let go the jib halyard and dump it all.
I usually draw up a tackle so the tack can be released, which brings the whole jib inboard, where it can be easily handled. If you release the halyard just after the tack tackle, the whole sail lands in a heap on the foredeck.

I'm old enough to remember the first roller furlers, which sucked. They jammed all the time, they broke, hard on sails, etc. There's nothing worse then having jammed half of a 150 rolled up and the winds are continuing to build. You can't tack, you can hardly steer and the headsail is causing so much windage you can't get where you want to go.

There are two ways to control a sail; mechanically or by hand. If you rely on a mechanical system to handle the jib, it better damn well work when you need it. Being at the mercy of a mechanical system on such a small boat, it better be bullet proof or made cheap enough that you can cut it away and toss it over the side if necessary. Why? Well, if you jam it and can't steer and now are heading towards some rocks or something equally as uninviting (like a broach), what else are you going to do, hope the motor starts in time, drop the anchor and hope it digs in? Please . . . can you tell I don't trust rollers? Look, I'm in therapy and getting better each month, okay . . .
Hmmmmmm.............'nuff said! I do have the jib halyard and downhaul run back to the cabin now and they are working just fine. I think I'll leave well enough alone for now.
What Paul says can happen, and you can get hit by lightning also, take it in perspective to reality.  In my system you can just take the jib down at any time, like a non roller jib.  You can certainly rig any Weekender this way and not use the forestay.  Paul's way of hauling everything back to the cockpit is a perfect solution as well.  There's more then one way to skin a cat.  Paul, glad you're seeking help Smile