BYYB Forums

I cut and epoxied the transom, and used a solid piece of wood cut to the proper curve as the transom stringer.  The stringer went in yesterday.  Unfortunately, there is little flex to the deck bottom across the transom.  When I dry fit the transom in place, all was well at the stern post, but out were the transom meets the side, the bottom edge of the transom contacts the stringer but doesn't reach to the bottom of the hull bottom plywood.  The transom stringer makes bending the hull bottom up impossible.  Can I just screw and glue as-is and fill in the voids with thickened goop and round it off? Will create big problems when fitting the deck and the lazarette front?

This picture is the port side.  Starboard is identical.

Dave I never got my Vac to conform right.  I used the same method you are using.  If t'was me I'd glue her in, add filler strips to the lower portion, and fill everything well with thickened goo and say TLAR!  I used a sawn member to reinforce the hull and transome inteface and then could not get the hull bottom to flex up to meet the curve of the transom piece.  I don't know about the Weekender but the radius of the front and aft ends of the lazertte are no the same.  It makes fitting the hatch cover a real problem.  The others may want to help you with this.

Thanks, Craig.  Good to know I'm not alone!  Anyone else with ideas?

Dave

I had similar problems with my transom as well.  What I didn't realize at the time was that when you curve a curved piece of wood, the curve tightens.

In my case I was dry-fitting those pieces so was able to adjust.

I'm presuming in your picture that the shiny surface is the hull bottom and that you've attached your log to the transom (?)  I ended up taking mine apart and re-doing it but at that point in the build I was much more a perfectionist that I am now some years later and still in the building phase.

This particular exposed edge is subject to some abuse so you don't want to just use some goop to fill as it might get knocked loose.  What you may want to consider is a cutting some MORE off the hull bottom, enough to fit in a piece of wood at least 1/2" wide that you can probably glue in place maybe with a couple of nails to hold it there.  That's assuming you have enough meat in the log to still attach the hull bottom.

Hopefully this made sense - I just re-read it and it's pretty confusing ....

The biggest key to success in boat building is problem solving. Issue after issue, with clever solution, after putty job, after no one will ever see it solution, sweat over things like sinking 50 miles out in the Atlantic. Thickened epoxy and paint can cure most any ill that may befall your boat.

(07-27-2009, 09:20 AM)Dave Blake link Wrote:Can I just screw and glue as-is and fill in the voids with thickened goop and round it off? Will create big problems when fitting the deck and the lazarette front?

If that's your worst mistake, you're doin' good. 

Actually, if the port and starboard sides are identical, your boat will be different than 90% of them including mine. ;D

Thanks, guys.  I'm starting to feel a little better!

Dave

Greetings Dave,

I also cut the stringers for the transom and lazarette from a plank instead of bending them into place.  

Impossible to bend?  Nonesense. Get a bigger clamp!


http://home.comcast.net/~TomsWeekender/i...13202a.jpg

These bar clamps easily drew up the hull bottom to meet the curve of the transom. Note the use of the scrap wood under the clamp to prevent dimples in the wood.  The red strapping leads to tie-down ratchets which easily drew in the transom to meet the hull bottom.

I have a couple more photos at http://home.comcast.net/~TomsWeekender/glueup.html

Cheers
Tom

Hi Tom!  Great photos and explaination on your link!  Are the 1-1/4" screws and epoxy attching the transom to the stringer up to the challenge the stress that the bend will produce?  Maybe the screws need to be 2" apart instead of 3'.

Dave

Put a washer on the screws to increase their holding power.  After the glue has dried, remove them and counter-sink.