I've glassed the hull and am in the process of skim coating the cloth. My weekender will spend most of it's time on a trailer and I'm figuring out what paint to use. I'm planning on using a high build primer and taking the time to prep for the top coat. Please give me some recommendations for a primer/paint combination that won't cost an arm and a leg. I am in the Memphis, TN area and have access to the regular paint outlets. Thanks
Use boat paint! Petitt or interlux are both good. I used Interlux on mine after using cheap porch paint the first time. The boat paint is lasting much better. Use the right primer and that special thinner that they charge so much for is really just xylene. You can get a gallon of it for 15 bucks at homedepot.
You can also find cheap prices on your paint here
www.boatersland.com
Paint is one of those things you do actually get what you pay for. Paints are priced by the solids content, unless is a specialty type (such as LPU). The more solids, the better it works.
Most boats that have been coated with epoxy, as a final prep to paint (after fairing) can go straight to top coating. In other words epoxy (scuffed up) makes a good primer. If going this route to save primer money, use 120 to 180 grit on the epoxy, but not any finer, so there's plenty of "tooth" in the epoxy for the paint to grab. I rarely go past 120 grit if using a single part paint (two or more coats fills the scratches).
All the major brands of marine paints work well, though are more expensive then paint store stuff. Paint stores sell some specialty industrial paints, which can work well too, but it will likely rival the cost of marine paint. Some use house paint, like porch and deck enamel. These paints don't have the modifiers in them to keep from being attacked by moisture, movement and the other things that screw with paint on boats.
In the end, get the best modified alkyd (oil based) you can afford. If your budget permits, the single part polyurethanes are better then the straight enamels.
Greetings,
Jamestown Distributors will ship anywhere, have reasonable prices, and will give you a discount for being a byyb member.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com
I've bought gallons of glue, thousands of stainless screws, and some marine paint and so far have been quite happy. Over the course of a year, just about everything you need to build a Weekender (minus the Okume plywood) will be on sale!
Cheers,
Tom.
Just to add in a contrarian view point, I've had very good luck with "rust" type paints. They tend to adhere well and have an opaque pigment.
Don't use household latex. If you read the can carefully you will see that they can take up to a month to completely harden.
I'm curious as to the effect the paint has on the keel. Since we don't glass the keel to allow it to dry out and not rot, doesn't the most impervious bottom paint pose the same problem? Or should I plan a different paint for the keel?
Unless you plan extended in the water events, more then a few days at a shot, you don't need traditional bottom paint (anti fouling paint). This paint is for boat that are stored on a mooring or at a berth, not trailer boats.
With the exception of solvent based LPU's all paints will permit the keel to dry out fairly quickly and rot concerns shouldn't be a problem. LPU's on the other hand are so hard that moisture might take long enough trying to get out, that issues could arise. I don't think many Weekender or Vacationer builders are using LPU's as the cost per gallon will make you head off to Wall-Mart to look for another type of paint.
The recent 17'er I just built had LPU on it and the cost for all the top coat paint for this boat was several hundred bucks. Most folks can't bring themselves to pay this much for paint.
Rot in the keel issues almost always result from the type of adhesives used, 'glass sheathings, tightness of the joints and quality of the lumber employed. Paint rarely causes these types of problems.
I used Interlux Polyurethane. I used a primer but it really wasn't necessary. I just wanted an even color to put the paint over. I now have about 5 coats and it looks great. Its been on there for two years with no problems, ---- except where I ding it.
My two cents worth. Poarch paint for porches, house paint for houses, airplain paint for airplanes, boat paint for boats. The paint co. have spent big bucks to study this. As much time and money as you have spent to get to this point why take a chance on a paint that is made for something else? Interlux is my choice but that is just my choice. Bud ???
I love the interlux two part polyurethane paint. I used Sikkens' polyurethane first, and the boat held up great with just one coat (!) of dark blue on the bottom and sort of a shell white on top, very shiny. People generally assume when they see my boat that the entire top, including cockpit, decks and cabin, are molded out of one piece of fibreglass! 8) I am not boasting, I always tell them, no it's just the magic paint! Then when I wanted to repaint the keel, it seemed as though Sikkens had stopped making the stuff so I bought the interlux "perfection", which was a slightly lighter shade so I had to repaint the whole bottom. But after six years there really wasn't anything wrong with the original single coat. I am glad I bought the best boat paint I could afford.