BYYB Forums

Another day, another dilemma. I'm ready to install the bilge board boxes in my Pocket Cruiser, but I am facing a significant problem. It appears that the box won't fit far enough under the deck.  I built a mockup of the box and found that about 1/3 of the box actually sits inside the cabin area, not directly under the deck. This means that I cannot cut a slot in the deck for the board, which is the whole point. (I attached a photo. The cross hatching indicates the location of the slot and clearly shows that it is not, in fact, located under the deck) As per the plans, I am assuming that the box sits against the bottom panel joiner and is perpendicular to the joiner. I also assume that it sits vertically (not at an angle).

Since it is quite obvious that the box won't fit, I am wondering about my options. Here are some ideas:

1. Tilt the box slightly so that the board will lean inward toward the keel. My guess is that it needs to be tilted about 3 degrees to get the top of the box to fit under the deck. Will this affect performance of the boat?

2. Build a smaller box. If I make it narrower and not as quite as long, I might be able to fit it under the deck.

3. Relocate the box. Moving it back (aft) about a foot would allow it to fully fit under the deck. I would need to cut out some of the deck panel joiner. Would this placement affect the boat's performance?

4. Redesign the box so that the slot is located in the cabin roof, not the deck and carry the box all the way up to the cabin ceiling. I saw this done with a PC built by Wes Kisting (http://www.roguepaddler.com/boat.htm)

5. Give up and build leeboards.

Any thoughts??? I am stumped by this because everything else fits. [attachment=1]

Paul Hold on help is comming. Don't build the leeboards. I can't tell much from the photo but if you look at Fig #15 in the plans you will see the box is in the cabin under the side deck. I think you can slide it back a little without hurting preformance. My boxes are attached to the bottom (sole)and the top attached to the side deck. You can also cut down the thickness of the box the dagger board is less than 1"" thick. Something else you might think about is putting a board under the box to raise it enough to clear the stringer, this would give you another 1". If none of this helps post back and we will figure something that will work.  Bud

I like all your ideas and I think a combination of two or more strategies (narrowing the box and lifting it over the stringer, for example) might solve the problem. I still might need to give the box a small push toward the deck (which would give a slight tilt to the board). But you're suggesting that this won't harm performance?

Am I the only one with this problem?

A related question: How do people waterproof the interior of the box? I'm thinking of painting a layer of epoxy (but I have yet to use any epoxy, so I don't know if this is the best kind of protection.

Thanks again!

Paul use three carefully applied coats of epoxy on the inside of the box before final assy.  Use epoxy to glue all the box parts together.  This will waterproof the assy and insure it lasts for ever.  Moving the board for or aft an inch or so will not matter; however, moving it a foot will effect performance I suspect.  A slight angle as Bud suggests will not hurt. Work with Bud and not to worry.  Paul will likely assist as well.

Thanks for the advice regarding waterproofing. I'll go with the epoxy. I took some quick measurements and I think Bud's recommendations will work. I'll narrow the box a half inch and set it on top of the bottom board's stringer. That should give me the room I need. Pete Stevenson tells me that I am the first to have this problem (why me??), but he also confirmed that a slightly narrower box is fine and that a slight  tilt, if necessary, won't harm performance. I'll give it a try and let you know how it turns out. Thanks, everyone!

Paul I have found there is a fix for everything on a wooden boat.  Not to worry.  8) 8) 8)   Between all of us we have made most of the possible mistakes.  We also have a wealth of professional builders and designers who are very willing to help out.  Hang in there.

Craig, I appreciate everyone's willingness to talk me through each crisis. I am *slowly* learning that modifications are ok--and often necessary.