I am almost done painting the deck, cabin, cockpit, etc. I can't help but think ahead. I have to install hatches, handrails, toe rails, taffrail, splash combing, etc. I feel like I have 4 options.
1. just glue the stuff on top of the painted surface.
2. no glue, just screws.
3. use 3200 caulk and screw it down
4. etch/sand off painted areas of paint where I will be gluing.
I guess I am in favor of 1. in the event I ever repaint, but 3. is a good choice too to avoid water getting under the members.
Any advice?
Jeff most of the stuff you mention are things that may need to be replaced or repaired later. While I epoxied all that in place before applying the paint, to do it again I would bed and screw everything but the taff rail. Using 4200 you can easily replace or repair a damaged rub rain or shear. Epoxi makes it a much more complex operation. The only thing I didn'g glue was the hand rails onthe house roof and they have held up just fine. 8) 8)
Hello Jeff, I may not have enough experience with wooden mistresses. But, opinions are like uh, bellybuttons, everybody has one. I can only speak of when I was a plastic boat driver and I'm most humble enough to recieve constructive criticisms. Sealant is your friend! I'm not specifically familiar as yet with 3200, but anytime a 'hole' had to be performed, 5200 was my friend. I don't know enough in regards to wood to advise regarding sanding prep prior but I, myself, suggest plenty sealant with holes and screws. One good drip will invariable deserve another. I hate condensation, let alone when I retreat to the cabin to have one drip "invade!". I'm sure you'll recieve much more educated responses besides mine, but just say "no" to the drips! Good question, though, especially for neophytes like myself just beginning the "wooden" transformation from plastic. Later,
capnpablo
I believe he was referring to 3M 5200. I don't use 3M 5200 for much on wooden boats (plastic is a different story) as it's adhesive is very aggressive and will destroy what it's attached to during removal, without lots of trouble trying to save what's underneath. 3M 4200 or 400 are better but still pretty aggressive. BoatLife caulk is better as is 3M 101. These are more sealant then adhesive, which is the task you're asking it to perform.
We call this "bedding". The way I do it to make a really neat job of it, is to lightly trace the outline of the part where it's going to live on the boat. Remove the part then tape around the line, leaving about a 1/16" gap outside of this line. Use some denatured alcohol to remove the pencil line then apply a bead of your goo of choice. Place the part and lightly tighten it down (just enough to make the goo ooze out around the edges of the part, no more). Wipe up the ooze out and leave it alone for a few days, until the goo cures. Now remove the tape (if you haven't already) and tighten down the part good. This smashes the part into the cured "gasket" of now cured goo and makes a very good seal. The tape around the part thing, leaves a very neat and professional looking edge. This line can be used to paint against too. If you tighten down the part, before the goo cures, it can easily get squeezed out of the joint and leave you with a paper thin smear of goo, which doesn't realy seal much.
I've done hundreds of cleats, chocks, fair leads, etc. this way and none have had issues, with all looking like they were placed and caulked by machine (the tape trick is way cool).
Once again, I humble myself before ye Paul. I'm still learning this wooden boat stuff! And yes, with 5200 there is no "removing"! Kinda like when an old friend of mine asked me to remove the plastic snowman from his roof at the end of Christmas. I must have yanked three or four shingles right off the roof! I asked what he used to "temporarily" hold Frosty up there, to which he replied: Gorrilla Glue. In short, yes, the 101 sounds like the ticket! Later,
capnpablo
Thanks everyone. I have purchased bedding compound by Dolfonite. I don't think there are any adhesion properties to it. It stays flexible and you mold it and put it in place. Sounds perfect.
Thanks again for all the advice.
yep, 5200, tape, screws & razor knife. Once it is on, its on!!!!
Jeff, I used Dolfonite to bed the bow sprit, bits, hand rails and other varnished parts. It was nice to work with and very little waste. You can scrape off the squeeze out and put it back in the can. I got it from West Marine, they had to order it. The guy at West said he had not sold a can in years! I'm sure it is cheaper elsewhere but I got it in 2 days. The UHMW shoe on the keel is bedded with 101, the access hatches, silicone (as recommended by the manufacture)
Joel
The only problem with Donfinite or other oil based traditional bedding compound is they lack the flexibility of the man made stuff. I use Dolfinite if I'm forced to in a restoration, but generally prefer the man made stuff for most things.
3M 5200 can be removed, but you have to be especially interested in doing no harm. A hot wire, very sharp blade or thin saw blade will do the deed in most cases. I use a piece of piano wire (yes, it actually came out of a piano) that is attached to a battery charger, which causes it to heat up. Wooden handles on each end and I can slice through the goo under a cleat in seconds. Of course then you have to clog plenty of sand paper to remove the remaining goo.
WHAT? It actually came out of a piano? That is how model aeroplane (airplane for the US dudes) guys make parts out of foam. Attach a guitar string to a battery charger and you have a nice hot knife to carve foam.