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I am using a mix of Interlux Brightside white and yellow paint, 1 part each, for the cockpit and deck area of the Amanda Marie. I really like how the paint brushes on then 3 minutes later no brush marks. The paint can take a few days to get good and hard but once hard wears well.

The problem is the paint films over in the can between uses. I bought a paint can from Home Depot so I could mix and save the paint. It seals good and I made sure each time that I tapped the lid on completely. Is there a way to prevent this film over? I am losing a good bit of paint, when I pick off the thick film and toss it, each time I open the can and use the paint. Is there a problem with storing this paint? Is there something I can do to prevent the film over? I would like to have a bit of it left over for touch up.

On another note would it be worth the time, money and effort to use something like Interlux Perfection for the hull bottom or is the Brightside going to do as well? neither are rated for below the waterline but since my boat will be trailered to and from lakes where it will spend at the most a day or so in the water I thought I could pass on bottom paint.

Paint is like politics. Everyone has there ideas on choice. Please feel free to share yours. Oh and hopefully answer the question.

Ray Frechette

I like bottom paint, even for boats that will not spend long periods in salt water.

1.) It won't peel if left in longer than 48 hrs like some other topsides paint.

2.) It covers a world of sins in surface prep. Thick and viscous it doesn't show areas not smoothed completely.

3.) If you change your mind and leave it in the water for a few weeks, your still protected.

For small boats you only need about a qt anyway.

I like Interluxes multi season ablative ACT bottomkote.
Paint manufactures have really improved their products in the last ten years. You can now brush on a coat and get nearly spray quality results. The chemical reasons are complex, but revolve around "wetting" agents to induce surface tension without skinning up, before "self leveling".

A trick to keep paint from skinning over in the can is to use an inert gas to "charge" the can. I usually use mapp gas, because it's in a torch near by, but I've used argon, acetylene and other gasses, depending on what's handy. The idea is to drive out the moisture laden air, replacing it with a something that will not trap moisture or oxygen inside the can.

Take a propane torch next to the can, with it's nozzle inside the top of the can. Place the lid over top of the can, with enough room to allow air to escape. Turn on the gas, which will fill the top portion of the can and displace the air. When you're good and sure there's enough gas, quickly slam down the lid and pound it on. This works like a charm and is exactly how the manufactures keep their product from skinning in the full can (they use nitrogen).

Some like to very carefully pour some thinner on the top of the paint, then put the lid on. This keeps the air from getting at the paint so it can't skin up. I don't do this because it's way too easy to mix this thinner into the paint, slightly diluting it each time you do it. It does work, but you have to be very gentle with the can.

If your surface prep is good and you used a good primer, then bottom paint is a waste of money. It's costly, can't be applied very smoothly, has limited colors and marks up very easily. On most trailer boats, good quality topside paint, applied correctly will work just fine, even if you leave the boat in for a day or two. This wasn't always the case, but modern paints are much different then the stuff we all grew up with. They're much harder, more durable, more waterproof and shine better. Because of this, it can work very well as bottom paint on a trailer boat.

Ray Frechette

I have yet to talk to a paint tech support who likes the idea of their paint being immersed in water for much longer than 48 hrs.

Brightsides sure doeesn't.

Given that Brightsides costs about $20 a qt, and Interluxes ACT costs $40.00 a qt I am quite happy to waste the money.

Bottom paint is formulated to not peal off a boat when immersed in water for long periods of time.

And I find it stands up to rigors of being hualed on and off a trailer quite nicely.
Thanks for the ideas and suggestions. I have a hard time liking most bottom paints. They are for the most part matte finishes and the color selections tend to the dark drab to me. There is one that appeals to me, VC Underwater Epoxy. It finishes to a semi-gloss white. Here's a link to it on Jamestown Distributers:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/use...ater+Epoxy

My questions about this paint though are...

How do you clean your spray gun after spraying and epoxy based paint?

Isn't spraying epoxy super dangerous? (What protective gear would I need?)

Since I intend to sand and recoat the bottom of the boat yearly, (I anticipate scratches, nicks and dents), am I going to be sorry I didn't go with the easily applied Brightside paint if I choose this one?

I will have about 150 hours in this little boat when I finish. From what I have read here and from past experience keeping the trim on my house presentable I think an annual sand and paint of the areas of the boat that show wear is a must. Besides the Amanda Marie is small enough that I can flip her with the help of one other person. It is my intention to store her bottom side up over the winter.
Terry, you have more energy then I have, I salute you! Big Grin
I am not sure it is more energy or just my first boat and many, many do overs. I think I could halve the time if I did it again. For one thing I would worry less about it being perfect. I have learned how easy it is to fix many of the mistakes I tried so hard not to make. I have thoroughly enjoyed the building of this boat, the camaraderie of this forum and the visualization of a dream taking shape in my shop. The hours spent were a bargain.

I am still amazed at how short a period of time you took to complete your weekender. It is more complex then the Triad and you completed it in a few months!

I may never build another boat. I'd love to build at least one more, a PAR design, but health is an issue. Also once this boat is finished my wife has a huge list of "things" she wants done and has been very patient about waiting for. Besides her list I have my own list; sail 4-5 lakes in Montana, at least twice that in Minnesota, a couple of lakes in the SouthWest fleets area and perhaps even a trip down the Mississippi as someone suggested in a past post.
Don't forget a sail on Great Slave Lake Terry.
Terry, this Weekender was the 15th boat I built, not counting helping others, so I knew short cuts that you have just learned in your first build. And actually, I built it to launch stage, not finished in more like 6 weeks, which even amazed me.

Ray Frechette

I like the matt finish of bottom paint.

It covers a lot and means less time for finiky smopothing prior to painting.

And besides, when the boat is in the water, only the fish see it.

I would not spray epoxy. Period. I just wouldn't do it.

Traditional bottom paint save my customers enough on labor to easily pay for the paint.

Rolled on. Period, just rolled after taping. Thats it. Nothing else.
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