BYYB Forums

I asked, in another post, about the joint where the sides and deck meet and the idea of using a router with a roundover bit was suggested. I will try that when I finish the bottom and flip the boat.

My current concern is the edge where the hull bottom and sides meet. I have finally gotten all four pieces of the sides on and am in the process of filling the screw holes and fairing the sides. The edges where the hull bottom and sides meet have been sanded and they make nice curves but are also fairly sharp. They would cut the water nicely, but I have looked at others and it seems clear that some rounding has been done to this joint on others boats. I also don't think it would be possible to keep paint on the sharp edge either so think that mine should be rounded some too. I tried using a router but since the angle is opposite of the deck/side joints the bit doesn't hit the wood. How have others rounded the corresponding edges on their boats? Carefully, by hand and eyeball them or are there other ways?

Carefully, by hand and eyeball them.

I've made up a simple cardboard template with the angle and a radius that I want to use for the project. I set the angle at the broadest point and the radius for what I want to use overall. I can work along the junction of both planes and using the template come up very close to what I am after.
I use a random orbital sander after using a sanding block to shape to approximately what I'm after. Minimal impact to the rest of the surfaces.
One thing to remember. Don't sand the plywood any more than absolutely necessary, if you can avoid it. You will sand out the soft grain and leave a washboard behind you. This all has to be filled with resin if you are going to have a "fair" surface to finish.

i always use a belt sander with a real course sand paper. 50 grit is my favorite. if i had a wood grinder i would use that :twisted: . i don't worry too much about perfection at this stage. it is going to be glassed and smoothed over so many times that small variations are not important.... at least to me. just make sure the belt sander is parrellell to the chine of the boat and not at a right angle while you are sanding. you will leave big gouges. as you get close to where you think you want to be just stand at the end of the boat and look down the chine. you will see variations and just touch em up.

i admit i took more material off of the chines on my weekender than most people but i have so much reinforcement in all of the corners that i have not come close to comprimising the structure and i rather like it. for the amount of time spent doing it, i don't think i will go quite that far on the vacationer i am working on. i gotta get it wet by next spring.

I did mine like Aaron, belt sander then just finished it off a bit with a sanding block and hand. It doesn't have to be piano smooth as cloth goes over it. We all know I don't build to perfection on looks so....

Terry that radius wants to be 1/2" or a bit more so the cloth will conform to the curve when you glass it. Much less and the cloth will pull away and blister as the epoxy goes off. When roughing out, if it looks good to your eye then it is done.

Ok if I understand what everyone has said its...

"If a littles good a lots better"
and...
"Push hard and it'll go easy"
and...
"Close enough"

I think I got it?

Actually thanks for the real advice and ideas. I spent some time looking at all the fine boats that others have built and am just trying to measure up. Here are a few pictures of the bottom of the Amanda Marie:











I still need to reset a couple of screws, fill the screw holes, fair the sides, coat and glass the sides and bottom but she is getting closer to water each day.

She's looking great Terry, keep up the good work mate.

Brian.

Classy looking hull you got there Terry. Regarding the original question, I got some sanding disks for my angle grinder, that take wood off real fast. If not careful, they can be over done. Slow and careful is the best for the hull chine.

Greg

seems like the final answer is just pretend that you have been doing these for years. in so many ways lack of confidence is a killer. i learned this when i went rock climbing for the first time. i was stiff as a board and i nearly wet my pants when i looked down! :oops: not a problem now. stay fluid and loose and believe that you can't mess up and it is amazing how well you will do. i love the aproach of uncovering the existing conture instead of creating a new one.

looks like you have done an awsome job so far! the hard part is over.

perhaps when you are finished we should plan a yellow stone trip or something.... i think that is in the middle round abouts.....

i forgot to say if you gouge it, that's what filler is for anyway. no one will ever know. i gouged mine a few times and i have no idea where anymore because i can't see it. paint and fiberglass hides all evils.