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The plans for the Triad boat I am building call for a rail where the deck and sides join and a rub rail below that on the sides. The top rail attaches to portions of the sides that extend above the plane of the deck.

The concern I have is; if I put that rail at the top, where the deck and sides meet, water that splashes over the deck will run off into the cockpit and not off the side back into the water. I guess I could cut out drain areas or holes in the plywood side that is left above the deck and attach the rail above that or I could grind the the side smooth at the deck and either attach the top rub rail to the side or eliminate it and have only one rub rail lower.

The plans calll for a 1x2 to be attached under the rim of the deck, surrounding the cockpit, to add stiffness and support. I thought I might extend about 1/4-1/2" of that support above the plane of the deck, to keep water out of the cockpit. That coupled with eliminating the top rail and having nonskid areas direct water should help keep things a bit drier. I realize you take on water but it seems this boat was designed to encourage it.

Please let me know what you think or any ideas you may have.

Ray Frechette

I think I would have deck overlap side hull and plae it flush to hullside. Roudnover bit to round over that bit and a rubrail added just below that point with an inwhale at the deck to hullside interface.

A structural support to the inside edge fo the desk is an excellent idea as well. The you could bend in some nice 6 mm ply as coaming all the way around. I can bend 6 mm to an 8 inch radius quite nicely by soaking it in room temp water overnight and then wrapping it in a bath rtowel and pouring on boiling water on top and allowing it to steep for 30 minutes prior to bending. Once bent keep clamped up overnight and then remove and glue into place.

Doubling up another 6 mm piece on the outside edge gives you 1/2 inch thick coaming. Plane this down to a consistent 3/4 above deck and then hit with a roundover bit both outside and inside edge and the results are nicely elegant.
It is to late to have the deck over lap the sides. I built the boat to plans and they called for the sides to be added to the outside of the deck and hull bottom. What diameter round over bit do you recommend?

I haven't done any water/steam bending, but the idea of using plywood instead of a 1x2 would make it more appealing. The curve of the deck around the cockpit is very shallow. I have been able to bend a mahogany 1x2, that is planed to 5/8", using just clamps. I would have to use screws to hold it as well as epoxy and still would worry about it holding once the clamps were removed. Two layers of plywood capped with a strip of mahogany would look nice is left bright. Nice suggestions thanks!

Ray Frechette

I generally use a 3/8 roundover to round the deck opver the hull sides.

If using ply, it does need to be top quality BS 1088 stuff for tight bends.

And the good stuff finishes bright much nicer than ACX fir or luann.

On the CoreSounds I build, I just have 2 layers of 6 mm which comes out to 1/2 inch tihck and then use 1/4 roundover to take the edgses off.