BYYB Forums

On my Weekender I chose to round over the deck/side joint and fiberglass over it rather than have the sides stand proud of the deck. This has worked fairly well but now I have a dillemma.

Originally I was planning on installing a toe-rail raised up on blocks but now (after almost 3 years on this project) I'm wondering if I actually need those? The boat looks fine without them and with my 16 1/2 stone weight, I'm unlikely to be skylarking around on deck.

Any thoughts?

P.S. - it's looking like another year without a launch. The budget's not going to stretch to a trailer again this year but I've still got lots to do building anyway.

That rail you describe would be a great place to tie things to like bumpers, lines, etc... Besides, they kinda look salty!

Hi Andrew,
I haven't posted much lately but I did do the toe rail as I think you are talking about. It was a lot of work and now I am faced with varnishing it!
I do like the look of it though.
I am hoping to finish the boat enough this weekend to do sea trials next weekend. Here are some shots of Isla from a month or so ago. I'll post pics more pics when she is "done". (She'll never be completely finished, I'm sure)

Steven Goodman
(S/V Isla)

Just some thoughts on that rail configuration. Both the Wkndr and Vac have insufficient scuppers per the OEM design. That raised bloc variation works and looks better to my eye. I'd go with white blocks and a red rail vs. varnish every year. I would recommend a rubber rub rail just below the blocks as well. With the shear reduced, the edge of the deck/hull joint is going to take the lumps, bumps, and wear.

Looks great Steve, I did a simialr thing on a past boat and it was nice to have all those spots to tie things to.

So far as going on the fore deck, I did at the mooring today and almost got dumped in the water as she heeled farther then I though she would. No problem with a second person in the cockpit to balance her off, but alone getting around the mast, yikes! For this reason I have put off installing the jib until my furling gear arrives (next week maybe). I just can't image getting it down if the wind kicks up even with an outhaul/retrival line.

Andrew, you'll use a toerail more than you think. I'm a terrible sailor and around the dock and on the beach, I'm always having to grab at the boat to catch it as it tries to float away. Yesterday I fell in the lake, I was goofing around on the side deck and I lost my balance and fell in; I didn't PLAN to fall in, but I'm glad I could grab a rail and haul myself back in. Rounding the deck/hull joint is a good idea, I find bugs and leaves and water collect in the space between the half-round and the deck on the plans version, and it is difficult to cap the rail to cover the lamination between the side, and the rubrail and half-round inside peice. I would mount some kind of toerail, however, so that you have something to grab onto all around the boat. Also if you drop something on the deck it won't slide into the water and be gone forever, like my sunglasses and deck plates.

Keith brings up a couple of good points I never thought of.

Nice work, Steve, I like the rail.

Having sailed Mark's Weekender, SV Flyer, I feel that I can safely toot my horn, and cast an atta boy for the railing.

Something to grab on to, in or out of the boat. :roll:

Even with all the lines running to the cockpit, I've seen jibs snag or the peak bind and I just know my big bottom would be out on the deck. I would hestitate to give my toes that last despirate option of grabbing hold, as I slipped over board.

Hard to get back on board too, without them.

Craig, has a point about the scuppers. I recently tracked down a leak along my railing.

But you have plenty of time to decide, Andrew, your boat.

Mark did leave off the inner combing, and that smooth edge felt good on the keister, when the hull got up on edge.

Easy enough to add a toerail now anyway.

To be honest you have a much stronger hull to deck join with less propensity for rot now.

I build B&B Yacht Coresounds with precisely the hull to deck join you used and add a 6 foot long toerail either side of the deck form the bow to just past the cockpit opening by having a 3/4 by 1 inch high strip of wood 6 ft long rounded over on both top sides epoxy glued and screwed down to the deck. Screws every 6 inches.

If painted you can simply fill in the screws with thickened epoxy and paint. If varnished, countersink deeper and bung the holes over.

Ray's right. That's why it's called a toeRAIL and not a toe joint (I love being pedantic)

If I could build over again, I'd make a toerail as a separate piece instead of the way the plans show.