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I am to the point where I can actually consider painting. The hull will be bright yellow and the deck and cockpit white. I have Interlux Brightside Polyurethane in both colors and some Interlux - Interdeck Polyurethane Non-Skid Deck Coating in white to provide better footing in areas. My question is where to apply the Interlux - Interdeck Polyurethane Non-Skid Deck Coating?

Where I do apply Interlux - Interdeck Polyurethane Non-Skid Deck Coating I intend to leave a 1" or 3/4" strip around it for water run off and a nicer look. The idea of bumpy paint right to and edge sounded ugly.

I was thinking for the cockpit area I might devide the area in half down, the center line of the boat, and then perhaps even in half the other direction just for appearances?

I was thinking of segmenting the sides of the deck top every 16-24" and then the front nose cone area just down the middle leaving the two half cone areas?

Does this sound like over kill? I really don't see anyone lounging on the front nose cone area. The sail is close to the deck and the area is not big enough to lay out for tanning. My only concern is slipping if I had to climb out there. I am not sure on this small a boat that I would ever have to climb out there? The mast can be set and the sail raised or lowered while standing in the front of the cockpit. The boat is only 12 feet and that nose cone area is about 48" long and 44 inches wide at it's widest.

The Interdeck Polyurethane Non-Skid Deck Coating is a bit different white from the Brightside Polyurethane and has a lower shine. I want the boat to look nice and be functional so be creative with your suggestions please.

What have others did for the slip areas? Has anyone used Interdeck Polyurethane Non-Skid Deck Coating? Should I tint the Non-Skid Deck Coating bright pink as my daughter suggested? Forget that last question. This boat will not be pink! Ok maybe the lettering on the name decal.
Yep, you're describing "waterways" and it does make the boat look much more professionally done and channels water away from areas.

Any place something sticks up, should have a waterway around it. The bottom of the cockpit seats, around deck hardware, where the sides of the cabin met the deck, at the base of the bitt, along a bulwark (if you used one), around cleat bases, outer and iner edges, etc.

Walk down to the local marina and have a look at production sailboats. You'll quickly see what they've done. Some get real fancy about it and others are more business like.

A nice tip is to cut a radius in the corner of all the waterways, where the change direction. Is a easy thing to do and looks especially professional.

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This is a floor board I did a while ago which shows the curved corners and one other trick. I painted the board with a light tan, then taped off the waterways (for the texture), but I used a slightly darker color for the texture coats, so the waterways are contrasting in color. It's pretty subtle in this picture, but looks good in real life. Don't go crazy with this trick, just one shade lighter or darker is all it takes to look good.

You'll also notice I radius the corners of the plywood board too. This makes them a lot stronger, less likely to crack or catch a toe too.
So the textured, non skid, paint being a slightly darker shade of white is a good thing? Sometimes the luck I have makes me look positively intelligent. Thanks for the advice and ideas! Anyone have any pattern or artistic ideas?
I usually place the waterways in obvious low points or areas where water may collect against something, like a coming.

White is difficult to live with in bright sunlight. Now this may not be as big a factor in northern climates, but here at the 28th parallel, the sun can blind you off a bright white deck.

Cream is a traditional color for this reason, as is gray and most of the pastel colors have been employed, just to be different.

If you have a king plank, then boarder the plank with a waterway (if not a waterway down the centerline), surrounding the bitt, maybe breaking the deck into four sections at the bit with an athwartship waterway there. Another where the side decks parallel the cabin sides (aft of the curved front), again at the lowest point on the side deck, maybe another at the end of the coming or under the taff rail, another down the centerline of the aft deck.

As a rule, textured is applied in "patches" with no textured areas actually touching anything other than surfaces that get stepped on. This means along the toe rail or bulwark, cabin sides, comings, etc. should all have a waterway.

Is all this absolutely necessary? Nope, but it does look nice and professional. Again, look at your local marina, or any sailboat you may happen to pass along the way, say parked in some one's yard. You'll see how it's done.

Experiment with the width of waterways. Too narrow looks weird, so do extra wide ones, so place some tape around things and see how it looks. A Vacationer would probably look just fine with 2" waterways, but these may appear too wide on a Weekender, so possibly 1.5" would be better on these. Handily enough, tape comes in both widths, making it a pretty easy thing.

Also shown is a texture job, done right in the epoxy deck coating. The deck was coated with epoxy and allowed to dry. Next the textured areas were taped off and more epoxy applied in them. Just before the epoxy gelled up, I used a roller in the still wet goo, which puts a texture in it. Because the epoxy is about to gel over, it doesn't have time to flatten out, leaving the texture. The best thing about this method is it remains part of the boat, so paint can be stripped off (chemically) and the texture remains, plus there's no particulates to fall out or get scuffed off.
Thank you all for your ideas and suggestions thus far! I am in the unfortunate position of being a long ways from any marina and none of the 3 boat stores in town have anything that even closely resembles a sailboat or any other boat with non-skid deck areas. I checked the internet but found only one picture where they showed the non-skid areas on the decks but the boat was much larger and had a cabin so it left some questions.

I taped off some areas on half of the deck, where I thought I might add non-skid, and have uploaded pictures of that. If anyone would take a look and give me their suggestions concerning my non-skid area ideas I would really appreciate it.

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The last picture is my daughter and the reason the boat is named the "Amanda Marie".

My main concern with the non-skid is not so much the look as the function. I used 1 1/2" tape for this design and will probably use a bit narrower when actually painting. The entire cockpit area floor will be non-skid also. I will divide it into 4 areas. Some questions I have are:

Is my desing to much non-skid?

The sides of the cockpit area are for sitting only and aren't designed for foot traffic so maybe I am putting non-skid someplace I shouldn't?

If adding non-skid to the entire cockpit deck sides is a good idea should I break it into smaller areas, say 3 instead of 2?

Would one non-skid area on each cockpit side, about 3" in length, centered on the seat be a better idea?

The Non-skid paint is a different shade of white then the gloss white that the deck and other topside areas will have. The non-skid white has almost no shine and is a shade or two greyer? It is still white but will definitely be noticable from the gloss white.
I think that looks good and the tape width is just right for waterways to be effective.

You raise a good point about the side decks. Other then the area that might get stepped on as you enter the boat, they might be better served if not textured. Maybe a patch of texture for good footing. I'm not sure you'll need the aft deck texture at all.

There are a couple trains of thought on side deck texture. One is to have it so your butt doesn't slide around when hiking out. The other has no texture, which is more comfortable on your butt, though it could squirm around a bit if hiking out.

A Triad can be sailed pretty aggressively, so the side deck texture may be necessary, but in the end it'll be your call on the expected use and sailing nature of the skipper and crew.

Textured as you have it taped now, will look great, even better if the side decks had an extra waterway. No good reason for this waterway, but it would look better to my eyes anyway. I'd try to make them about the same length along the side decks, again for looks. Amanda deserves a good looking boat. Remember once she gets her sea legs, she's going to want you to sail faster, especially as she gains experience and starts realizing if she hikes out she can go faster. Texture can help keep her cute butt planted on the boat.

Other tip, even if you don't want a high gloss finish, always use a base coat of high gloss (which you can paint semi or flat over), because high gloss is more water proof then any other style of paint finish. Also flat against gloss doesn't often look good. The flat has a tendency of looking "dirty" in comparison. One more thing, it's a whole lot easier to clean gloss paint then flat, with many flats actually absorbing stains and spills.
Paul Thanks for the suggestions. The aft deck is the highest point on the deck, next to the very nose, but I anticipate it will lower substantially when I am sitting in the rear of the cock pit. A water channel, where I put the aft deck one might be a great water runoff spot as it would drain into the motor well which will have drainage holes in it.

The non-skid paint is not a true flat paint, more like a satin with texture. I am going to paint a test board with gloss and then use tap for the edges and paint a panel of non-skid in the cent just to see. I suspect though that when they compare you will be correct in it looking dirty or stained. I can't think of anyway around that other then not having so much of the deck side’s non-skid.

I did a small boat drawing and had one side with the two non-skid areas and the other with three non-skid areas. The side with three non-skid areas did look nice. When I taped the two areas, to give the board an idea of the look and shape of the Triad's deck, I didn't get the two deck side areas equal and I think doing so would add a bit more appeal as the three deck nonskid areas, nose, mid and aft deck sides, would be equal in length. Nothing in nature is truly symmetrical but we humans love our symmetry.

I am glad you added the tip about the gloss base coat. After my last post I thought I would add a post asking if I could paint the entire deck with gloss then add a couple layers of non-skid paint in the areas I wanted non-skid.

If anyone else has ideas please add them. I would love to hear them even after the paint is dry.
It's always best to paint the whole deck first, let it dry for a few days then tape off for your texture job. Use the blue 3M/Scotch brand tape. It works better then the other brands (I don't know why, but it does). Fresh paint can be easily damaged with regular masking tape, because the adhesive is too aggressive and it also leaves a residue.

As shown above it looks good, with the additional break in the texture (three panels) it would look better (at least to me). You're doing a great job, keep it up and send in more photos, as I suspect this is a topic that will be "searched" in the future and your deck can be a feature.

It shouldn't be difficult to measure out the side decks to get equal spacing for the three panel job. No one will notice if one side is an inch off except you. The rounded off corners look nice don't they.
Just chiming in here, I dont know much about anti skid so this is a lessen for me as well, But Terry shes looking great your comng along nicely. and your daughter is a sweetie for sure, I love the lookout pose.

Brian.
Amanda Marie, my daughter not the boat, is a bit of a ham and like most 8 year olds can lean towards being a drama queen, but she is a sweetheart and an inspiration. Her smile and energy gets me going on days when I feel like only sailing the lazyboy.

I am still aiming for a July launch but have given up on early July. There isn't a lot left to do on the boat but there is a heavy load of yard and house maintenence that will limit shop time. My wife, after watching some epoxy work, has decided that sanding down and epoxying the trim and sills around the outside of each window and then painting would make the house look ever so nice. She is correct but her idea of when that should get done is still under debate. I am trying, so far unsuccessfully, to convince her that it can wait until fall.
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