05-23-2008, 10:27 AM
My outboard usually starts on the first pull. Why can't I get a lawnmower that will do that? 
05-23-2008, 11:22 AM
Mine does, but you have to pump the little rubber primer thingy. I don't think they should really count that as "one-pull start" since you're just replacing one action (the extra pull and setting the choke) with another (pumping a stupid little red rubber nipple). :?
Brian_Watford
05-23-2008, 11:42 AM
yeah, my lawnmower has one of those little rubber nipples. It says pump it 3 times. I pump it 3 times and pull the rope 10 times then I go get a beer and watch the grass grow taller. Maybe I just need a new mower. This time electric.
05-23-2008, 12:00 PM
I'm really thinking about an electric myself. The Home Depot has two Homelite electrics, one corded and one with a battery. I want to switch partially because of gas prices (dang nice grass is expensive now!) and partially because there's a leak halfway up the gas tank on my old mower. I've been just filling it up halfway to mow lately. :lol:
Brian_Watford
05-23-2008, 01:34 PM
sounds like it is time for a new one. I just bought a used lawn tractor a few montha ago, It either throws the belt on the mower deck or burns it up in minutes. I need to figure out how to adjust the tension wheel or something. If I can't get it to work, I'll take the engine out and put it in a boat. 
05-23-2008, 05:08 PM
But then your boat motor won't start on the first pull anymore!
ROFL
Reuel Parker is a big fan of putting lawn mower engines in his boats, have you read "The Sharpie Book"?
ROFL
Reuel Parker is a big fan of putting lawn mower engines in his boats, have you read "The Sharpie Book"?
Brian_Watford
05-24-2008, 06:24 AM
Fortunately the lawn tractor has electric start. It just doesn't work for other reasons.
05-24-2008, 11:02 AM
A lot depends of the type of engine or more specifically what type of carb you have on your mower.
Most small engines, which have the fuel tanks mounted under the carb, have a suction or lift carb. The carb bolts directly to the tank and has two tubes, one is to suck fuel the other a vent to maintain atmospheric pressure.
These can have one of two types of initial start priming systems and bulb, with creates a vacuum and draws fuel up the tube (with enough pumps) and a diaphragm type, which generally don't need to be primed, unless not started for a long time or the diaphragm has a hole (very common on older mowers).
Larger engines will have at least a gravity fed or diaphragm type of pump, with even larger engines, having separate carbs and a float and needle arrangement, just like cars (actually more like motorcycles). Most fuel bowl equipped engines can be converted (if not supplied this way) to electric start.
Almost all hard starting issues can be traced back to fuel delivery issues. The ignition systems are very basic, with no moving parts, so they last for decades, which leaves the fuel side to cause problems.
If the mower has any age on it, rebuild the carb. Just disassemble it, clean the crap and varnish out of it, install new low and high speed jets, needle and seat if it has one, orifice tubes, blow out all the passages with compressed air, let dry and reassemble with new gaskets. Install a fuel filter if it doesn't have one.
A common problem with bulb primers is they get a pin hole over time (usually more then one) and this causes them to leak down, back into the tank. Most of these pin holes are too small to permit fuel to leak out on your finger, but will let air in to kill the prime, requiring you to pump the crap out of the bulb, just to prime it up. The priming bulb is usually very easy to replace.
I have a nice 2 stroke weed wacker, with a spent primer bulb, but there isn't a replacement. I sealed the bulb with silicone, but don't use it, I pour fuel directly into the vent line, which basically floods the engine. I open the choke wide and give it two pulls to clear the cylinder, then party close it and a one more pull stats her right up. You don't need the bulb, but it's easier then pouring fuel into the engine.
Go on line and find the repair manual for the engine you have. Give it a full tune up and set all the adjustments so it runs like a clock. These engines are quite adjustable and easily tuned. I've kept them running with compression below 100 PSI, just by keeping them clean and in tune.
As an engine gets older and wears, it will need more ignition advance (if adjustable), to cover the slop in the valve train. Also older engines will want to have their mixture made richer as they wear out to compensate for the higher volume of air/fuel getting past the worn parts. Also one other ting that is common, make sure the air filter is clean and not restricted. They get covered in oil and dirt, making them useless, so much so that you can't get enough air to start them.
Most small engines, which have the fuel tanks mounted under the carb, have a suction or lift carb. The carb bolts directly to the tank and has two tubes, one is to suck fuel the other a vent to maintain atmospheric pressure.
These can have one of two types of initial start priming systems and bulb, with creates a vacuum and draws fuel up the tube (with enough pumps) and a diaphragm type, which generally don't need to be primed, unless not started for a long time or the diaphragm has a hole (very common on older mowers).
Larger engines will have at least a gravity fed or diaphragm type of pump, with even larger engines, having separate carbs and a float and needle arrangement, just like cars (actually more like motorcycles). Most fuel bowl equipped engines can be converted (if not supplied this way) to electric start.
Almost all hard starting issues can be traced back to fuel delivery issues. The ignition systems are very basic, with no moving parts, so they last for decades, which leaves the fuel side to cause problems.
If the mower has any age on it, rebuild the carb. Just disassemble it, clean the crap and varnish out of it, install new low and high speed jets, needle and seat if it has one, orifice tubes, blow out all the passages with compressed air, let dry and reassemble with new gaskets. Install a fuel filter if it doesn't have one.
A common problem with bulb primers is they get a pin hole over time (usually more then one) and this causes them to leak down, back into the tank. Most of these pin holes are too small to permit fuel to leak out on your finger, but will let air in to kill the prime, requiring you to pump the crap out of the bulb, just to prime it up. The priming bulb is usually very easy to replace.
I have a nice 2 stroke weed wacker, with a spent primer bulb, but there isn't a replacement. I sealed the bulb with silicone, but don't use it, I pour fuel directly into the vent line, which basically floods the engine. I open the choke wide and give it two pulls to clear the cylinder, then party close it and a one more pull stats her right up. You don't need the bulb, but it's easier then pouring fuel into the engine.
Go on line and find the repair manual for the engine you have. Give it a full tune up and set all the adjustments so it runs like a clock. These engines are quite adjustable and easily tuned. I've kept them running with compression below 100 PSI, just by keeping them clean and in tune.
As an engine gets older and wears, it will need more ignition advance (if adjustable), to cover the slop in the valve train. Also older engines will want to have their mixture made richer as they wear out to compensate for the higher volume of air/fuel getting past the worn parts. Also one other ting that is common, make sure the air filter is clean and not restricted. They get covered in oil and dirt, making them useless, so much so that you can't get enough air to start them.