Sorry everyone, but I really do not like the look of the bits at the bow of the boat. I'm not sure if that design was on earlier historic boats or not, but here is my idea...
I was thinking of eliminating the bits and screwing in two large eye bolts in the bottom of the bow sprit (through the deck) and screwing in two corresponding eye bolts in the keel then putting airline cable (possibly with turnbuckles).
I just can't see a problem with this design, but I am an optomist when it comes to my own ideas.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Not sure that I can visualize what you are trying to accomplish. Can you post a sketch of what you are planning?
The bits serve a couple different purposes. First is the containment of the aft end of the bowsprit, which is obvious. Second is providing a stationary post/cleat to attach a mooring line when tying up to a dock. The bits in this case would replace two cleats mounted on ether side of a very small deck area for mooring. In one form or another they have proven to be a very practical solution to both needs.
One major issue with putting cable/turnbuckles below the bowsprit to apply tension for the bowsprit. Trailering the boat. The cables interfere with the winch/post on the trailer when you are trying to retrieve the boat. Also there just isn't a lot of room down there when you actually look at it with a boat working in the water point of view. You would really need a dolphin striker to add an additional angle to the line(s) below the bowsprit to enable enough geometry to provide a good support.
Also, the less holes you put in the bowsprit, the better off you are. It would be better if there were no holes in it and bands were used instead of eye bolts, but then it is a bit overbuilt to allow for that and the various qualities of materials that get used.
But then if you don't like the traditional looks, I'm just curious as to why you decided to build the Weekender. No offense intended in any way at all.
I think you are visualizing cables on the outside of the boat...when actually they are on the inside of the boat (they would be in front hull access area)...thus providing the same support, but not visible from the deck.
I had also considered the metal strap idea that you mentioned.
I think without bits, I could still sneak a dock cleat or two up there.
I love the look of the entire Weekender, but it is just the bits I'm not fond of....not however, something I wouldn't build an entire boat over.
I could be wrong, but I thought I saw a few Weekender photos with no bits....if so, I wonder how they did it....Anybody???
Quote: I'm not sure if that design was on earlier historic boats or not.
Bits are a fairly common feature on Friendship Sloops. One reason I like the weekender is the traditional looks (even down to the bits). I also find the bits quite useful on my weekender. For historical information I include some urls. (I didn't include these as pictures since they are so large).
Here is a beautiful picture of Mary Anne showing her bits.
http://www.fss.org/E016.jpg
The Friendship Sloop Society has a diagram showing the parts of a typical sloop - note item f.
http://www.fss.org/anatomy.jpg
I provide this just to show why the Stevensons put bits on the weekender. Please don't take me wrong, If you don't like them don't include them. That's the beauty of building your own boat - it can be what ever you want.
OK, now I can visualize what you are thinking about a bit better, (no pun intended). I would probably just place a band over the bowsprit in that area and thru bolt it to the deck with a backing plate beneath it. I would use stainless banding or form an aluminum strip to conform to the contours of the bowsprit and then bolt it down. It would be clean and neat and a lot less effort in my mind. I don't think you would need to use cables or turnbuckles and I don't think that they would do anything really to benefit except make more work and more that might need attention.
I think I know what you mean. Your email makes it sound like you just bolt metal strapping over the bow sprit and on to the deck? I was initially planning on bending the strapping over the bowsprit (maybe even slightly recess it into the bow sprit) then run the strapping straight down through the deck and bolt onto the sides of the keel. Is that what you meant?
I do think that is much sturdier than a couple eye bolts, but I am not sure if eyebolts would compromise the integrity of the bowsprit or not...
I would not penetrate the surface of the deck with the strap. I would create two flanges and thru bolt them to the deck with a backing plate below the deck surface to strengthen the area. Recessing the strap into the bowsprit itself compromises the strength of the bowsprit a little at that point. Same reasoning for not thru bolting it with eye bolts. There is a great deal of stress on the sprit at that point as well as the point where you thru bolt it for the clubfoot attachment eye. For optimum strength both of these areas would be better off if a strap were used instead. But then it is stronger than it needs to be for the most part to compensate for variations in materials and material types.
I'm of a school of building that avoids penetrating surfaces any more than absolutely necessary. Any surface penetration is an area for moisture to enter over time and rot to form. But then, that approach and mind set on my part is a result of repairing a lot of rotted holes and areas on boats that shouldn't have been there in the first place. Most all of those repairs could have been avoided if a little thought had gone into what was actually being done and how it was being done.
Such as drilling oversized holes and then centering the attaching bolt in the hole and filling around it with epoxy. The threads are coated with vaseline first and then there is no danger of moisture getting into the surrounding wood. This allows the bolt to be removed and replaced with the treads intact in the surface. The epoxy surrounding it, (Plugged) keeps moisture from entering and is stronger than the wood itself. Little danger of stripping it or having it work loose over time. It takes a bit more work to do it right, but it will outlast the boat generally without having any issues.
Just my thoughts on how I would approach it to eliminate the bits. There are a lot of boats built with bands rather than thru bolts and more by far using this method than drilling a hole thru the bowsprit itself. But these were designed to use common hardware store materials. And they work.
Jeff the bits provide an additional function. They transfer the downward force vector, resulting from the rig load on the sprit, back to the keel as opposed to just to the deck material. Think of the lower part, under the deck, as a compression post. Removing the lower portion will result in some amount of oil canning of your deck. I didn't like the bits going through the deck so I cut then flush and epoxied the remainder to the deck. The upper bits and thier chocks now bolt through the deck and the two large holes are replaced with two small ones. The back of the sprit has a 1/2" bolt holding it in place. The bits are sufficient for mooring but if you don't like them use cleats or the eyebolt throught the end of the sprit. Do not however elinimate the structural intregaty of the structure. Your cables would be fine for an upward vector but in this case it is downward. The bob stay and dolphin striker structure are intended to deal with the upward vector of the rig load. The dolphin striker, as drawn, also secures the forward portion of the sprit and helps to prevent lateral movement. You need to leave this in place as well as the straight chain that would result with elinimating it would not carry the rig load properly and fore stay system failure is very possible. I hope this helps...
Good point, but He is building a Weekender not a Vacationer. His vector forces are well within the ranges that can be handled by the sprit if thru bolted to a reinforced deck at that point. Were it a Vacationer I would concure and advise to provide additional support and secure them accordingly.
Yer right Barry. I didn't mark what he was making. Yes, no more rags then he has he'll be OK. Much better off without those large holes in the deck anyway. I don't recall if the Wkndr has a one piece fore deck. The Vac is split in the middle with the bits across and through the butt plate under the joint. It is sort of compromised from the get go, so if it gets to working with the aft end of the sprit it will not last long at all.