I have a few pieces of my Triad project posted on a website so I thought I would give a link since I wasn't sure how to post the pictures directly.
http://gonzos.com/7155.html
I have the rudder, dagger board and keel pieces cut out. For the picture I clamped the keel pieces together and it looked like something that was part of a boat so I got excited and wanted to share.
I am waiting for an order that includes CPES and intend to prime the rudder and dagger board with CPES before applying 4 oz cloth and glassing them. I was intending to use the rope as protection but decided to just go wood only and make non-wood replacements when needed.
I also intend on priming the keel with CPES and then gluing the pieces together with epoxy. I don't intend to glass the keel or coat it with epoxy entirely. So just a coat of CPES for primer, epoxy for gluing the pieces and for gluing to the bottom of the boat and then paint for the keel.
I do intent to glass the boat hull so if anything I have said so far is not wise please educate me?
Thanks for posting that Link, Terry. Nice to see the Triad coming together -- I'm envious! I've had a couple of set-backs and still have not purchased my wood yet
and now my clear space in the garage has been re-cluttered and I feel like I'm never going to get started :x
On the upside, I have bought a few more clamps and my surform
Just read onou your website that you have a yellow pine keel. That makes a lot more sense than African Mahogony. I highly recommend CPES for the keel as I treated my poplar keel with CPES and had no rot problems despite making the mistake of glassing the keel. I glassed with 16oz cloth which quickly wore away from the trailer and groundings resulting in water trapped next to the keel. CPES and paint and don't worry about scratches and gouges during grounding as they are easily filled with thickened epoxy.
As for the centerboard and rudder, I recommend keeping it simple and going with a penetrating marine oil. You paid a lot of money for that mahogony so might as well take advantage of its good water-resistant properties.
Mac I was wondering about you and how you were doing on your Triad. Thanks for anticipating my concern there. I intend to just plug away at building mine and not rush because the season for sailying is about gone in Montana. The water here is in the 40s now so a bit to cold for swimming.
I had decided on Interlux Brightside Largo Blue for the bottom and Interlux Brightside Seatle Grey for everything from the rubrails up, including the deck and interior. However my daughter is lobbying for a yellow boat so the bottom/hull color may become a brightside yellow. The grey is a very light, almost white, so it should not be to hot to sit on when it is 100 with no shade.
Scott, I like the oil idea for the daggerboard and rudder. I am going to use cpes for a primer and then paint the keel. I like working with African mahogany but it is pricey and very heavy. This will be a heavy enough boat as is without tripling the weight from the nonply woods. I used the mahogany for the rudder and daggerboard because I had some and thought one or two fancy peices might be nice.
Quote:Mac I was wondering about you and how you were doing on your Triad. Thanks for anticipating my concern there. I intend to just plug away at building mine and not rush because the season for sailying is about gone in Montana. The water here is in the 40s now so a bit to cold for swimming.
Yep - I check this board almost daily and have picked up lots of useful information. We don't really have a non-sailing season here on the Middle Coast, per se, but sometimes in January/February it gets right chilly.
I have acquired another assembly table (stolen from the kitchen) and I'm hoping to do most of the construction on my Triad over the winterish months. Keep those pics coming, Terry, and let me know about any plan problems or sticking points.
I have discovered a spot on my semi finished keel that I would like an opinion on what to do with. After planing and sanding the keel bottom smooth I found a spot of resin in the wood that was hidden until I sanded. The wood is southern yellow pine and the resin is soft enough to be sticky if you press into it a bit. It is a small area, about an inch long and 1/4 - 3/8" thick.
I intend to prime the entire keel with cpes, add a metal strip to the bottom of the keel and then sand or paint the keel so cutting it out is one idea. If you think the cpes will take care of it thats another I guess? I will try and post a picture to my gonzos website later tonite but if you have a suggestion and feel no need for a picture just fire away.[/img]
I think I would remove it back to good wood and refill with epoxy (I've learned a lot about epoxy lately
). I'm not positive how resin behaves over the long term; but it may well harden and shrink, which could open the way to a void.
I have a question about how the transom is attached. After reading the directions a dozen times it seems kind of clear that the sides of the hull attach to the outside of the transom and it's gussets. My question is does the transom attach to the top of the hull bottom or to the end/outside back edge of the hull bottom? The plans aren't clear on this, at least to me.
Quote:I have a question about how the transom is attached. After reading the directions a dozen times it seems kind of clear that the sides of the hull attach to the outside of the transom and it's gussets. My question is does the transom attach to the top of the hull bottom or to the end/outside back edge of the hull bottom? The plans aren't clear on this, at least to me.
I'll take a look at my plans to be sure, but I would think that it would be on the top of the hull bottom, since screwing into the side profile of a lamination is something I would usually avoid -- isn't there a stringer for the transom?
I found a posting on our forum, by searching "attach + transom", that made attaching the transom very clear to me.
http://byyb.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1...ch+transom
The pictures were posted by rolandblais and clearly show the transom being attached to the back/end of the hull bottom. Granted this was a different boat but I was leaning towards the back/end attachment after rereadiung the Triad instructions for about the 10th time. That post also included a link to Phil Gowans website with information on how he built his Weekender.
http://www.pragdata.com/philboat/mainpage.html Again it is a different boat but clearly shows the transom attached at the back of the hull bottom. He used stitch and glue instead of the plans building method but the pieces still go together as planned. I found his idea of preglassing the hull bottom very interesting. Since I don't want to glass my keel I was trying to figure out the best way to glass the bottom and doing it before construction may be the way I use.
I intend to butt joint, wth epoxy and cloth, the 3/8" plywood for the hull bottom. The plans call for a butt joint but with a 1x3 on the inside to hold the joint. The butt joint with just cloth and epoxy would eliminate the 1x3 board in the cockpit area. I will be glassing the bottom and epoxy coating the floor of the cockpit area, perhaps even glassing it, to help with abrasion.
I can imagine building this boat without the help of this forum. I can't imagine it turning out very well that way though. Thanks everyone for past and present help!