I cut up an Oak tree that fell over in the back Yard of my Stepsons House yesturday. it was pretty huge and my wife wanted a slice to place one of her stained glass lamps on as a base. Now this Wood is still fresh, I was wonderng how I could dry it,(Or even if it can be dried) if I could use an Oven, and if so at what temp.
Also I was wondering if it will split, they are perfect slices.
Thank all Y'all in advance
Brian.
Air Seasoning (Drying) of Wood
James Pastoret
School of Forestry, Fisheries and Wildlife
Drying, (air seasoning) wood can be complex. The purpose of this guide is to outline some of the important points in drying small quantities of wood. People who buy green lumber from one of the many small sawmills in Missouri are often interested in drying and possibly surfacing the lumber. Sawmill operators and dealers who wish to approach the subject on a larger, more professional scale are referred to USDA Agriculture Handbook Number 402. "Air Drying of Lumber."
Reasons for air drying wood
There are many reasons for drying wood. Four main reasons include:
To increase dimensional stability. Wood shrinks across the grain (not along the grain) when it dries. If wood is cut to size before it is seasoned, it will shrink during drying and thus be undersized in its final form.
To reduce or eliminate attack by decay or stain. Wood that is dried below 20 percent moisture content is not susceptible to decay or sap staining.
To reduce the weight. The weight of lumber will be reduced by 35 percent or more by removing most of the water in the wood or, as we say, by "seasoning."
To increase the strength. As wood dries, the stiffness, hardness and strength of the wood increases. Most species of wood increase their strength characteristics by 50 percent or more during the process of drying to 15 percent moisture content.
Piling lumber for air drying
The objective of air drying wood is to remove the water in wood by exposing all surfaces of each piece of wood to circulating air. In Missouri, wood can be air dried to a minimum of about 15 percent moisture content, provided the drying time is sufficiently long. It is also necessary to support the wood during drying to prevent the lumber from warping during the drying process. Lumber is piled in a special way to maximize the surface exposure of each piece of lumber to the air and at the same time to support each piece so it will dry straight and without unnecessary warping.
The first consideration is to prepare a strong foundation, 1 to 2 feet above the ground, on which to pile the lumber. The ground beneath the foundation should be kept free of vegetation or debris that would hinder air circulation under the pile.
Your lumber probably will be cut in random lengths and widths. For best results, pile each course so that each board within a layer is well supported and does not protrude at either end of the pile (Figure 1).
This system of piling is called "box piling" and has proven to be the best method of piling random length lumber. The outside boards of each tier are full length. This is important to tie the pile together and make it less subject to tilting or falling over. Leave spaces between adjacent boards approximately equal to the thickness of the boards.
Figure 1
Plan view of a tier of boards, illustrating the system of alternating short lengths for box piling. Unsupported ends of boards placed on the inside of the pile will dry with less defect than if allowed to extend over the end of the pile
An adequate supply of wooden sticks (spacers) will be needed to separate each layer (Figures 1 and 2). It is very important that the sticks be uniform in thickness. Sticks usually are cut 3/4-inch thick. Note that the stickers are carefully aligned vertically (Figure 2) so that each layer of lumber will be supported from the base of the pile. If the stickers are not properly aligned, forces will be created in the drying lumber that will result in permanent kinking of the lumber.
Figure 2
Diagram of essential features of good lumber stacking for proper seasoning
Finally, cover the pile with old boards, plywood, corrugated metal or any materials that will protect the top layers of lumber from sun and rain. It is also a good idea to weight the top by placing heavy objects such as concrete blocks or stones on the roof. This will reduce warping in the top tiers of the pile as well as secure the roof on the pile.
Drying time
In warm weather (April through October), 1-inch lumber can be dried to 15 or 20 percent moisture content in 45 to 60 days (2-inch lumber in 60 to 90 days). In the winter months, lumber will require twice as long to dry. Lumber at 15 percent to 20 percent moisture content is adequate for building unheated structures such as garages or barns. If the wood is to be used inside a heated structure, further drying in a commercial kiln is necessary (6 percent to 8 percent moisture content for indoor use in Missouri.)
If you want to dry freshly felled lumber, you need to cut it up into dimensional sizes (2x4's, 1x10's, etc.) and stack them (stickered). This then needs to be covered from the rain and kept well off the ground.
A 18" diameter log can take a few years to naturally season. Thick dimensional lumber can take several months.
The best way is to steam it and let it dry. The steam kills the beasties living in the wood, leaving the cells pretty much sanitary. A steamed piece of lumber will be moisture stable in a week, if less then 2" thick.
Hardwood, especially the oaks will want to check badly if naturally seasoned in full exposure to the weather.
A solar kiln is an option, which can easily be home built. The last choice is forced drying in a powered kiln. This will dry it quickly, but the wood will develop internal stresses from the outside drying much faster then the inside of the pieces. This makes the exterior of the lumber contract rapidly, but the interior doesn't, so big old cracks, checks and internal stress risers are generated, which can ruin your day sometimes. If you've ever run a piece of lumber through a table saw and had it curl off to one side baddy after the cut, but it was reasonably straight before the cut, then you've experienced the "release" of an internal stress riser. The saw blade relieved the wood of its bondage, with the internal stress conflicts within the lumber (both natural and forced drying) and the freshly cut piece adopted its new, unrestricted shape.
A way I do it without much trouble, is to rent a steel storage unit and sticker up the lumber pile, fresh off the mill. Then I place a box fan on one side and close the door. In the height of the afternoon sun, these storage boxes get damned hot, because they're all steel and haven't any insulation. Every week I'll rotate the lumber so everybody gets fresh air and I'll check moisture content. A stack of 2x6's can stabilize at 15% in a month this way.
The only fast way is to have a real forced air kiln, like the big boys use.
Thank's for all the information guy's thats good stuff.
But what I have is a few 6" diamiter slices about 2" thick that my wife wants sanded and finished to make a base for a stained glass lamp to sit on, this still has the bark ring on it as well I'd like to leave it on. but I was wondering if it would dry any quicker than seasoning lumber or fire wood like within a week or two?
Brian.
It's gonna split....Try this though and it might help, cover the endgrain with wax which will seal the pores so the moisture doesn't get out too fast. Now place it in your freezer for several weeks which will draw moisture out slowly like a dehumidifier . I've never tried this myself but I hear it works.
Keith
Thank You Keith I'll try it out I was hoping it wouldent split but if it does oh well.
Brian.
When it does split you can highlight them by carving them out with a grinder or chisels rounding over the edges to make them part of the lamp and not a flaw. Let me know if the freezer works out for you
Keith