
In this design,
the grates are symmetrical, mirror images of each other. There is a right
and left grate. Two distinctly different grates must be made up although
one larger grate could be made up and then just cut it in half and trim
to fit. So again using the full sized pattern I began to cut the longer
grate pieces and laid them in their appropriate positions on the pattern.
Each piece was cut longer than needed so once the grate was assembled,
it would be trimmed to its final size. Then the shorter cross pieces were
cut to rough length. I set these together interlocking them with the longer
strips to make up the grate. They all fit. Amazing!
The resulting grates were oversized allowing me to get it set as I wanted
it and then cut and trim to its final fitted shape in the framework. I
used Dap/Weldwood Plastic Resin glue to assemble the grate pieces, but
epoxy would work for anyone that wanted to use that instead. I glued just
the ends where they would be interlocking and left the joints within the
grate unglued. I set the grate assemblies between a stiff board and the
workbench and clamped them down to be sure that they were flush as they
setup over night.
It was time to assemble the framework. No screws or other fasteners were
used in assembly of the framework or grates. I chose to use biscuits to
join the pieces together and the two layers to each other. This would
allow for a good tight fit and would interlock everything together. I
again used the Plastic Resin glue. It is necessary to use water-based
glue with biscuits as they swell within the slots to lock it tight. Again
the challenge here is the potential for wood expansion and movement with
temperature and seasonal changes. I decided to take the chance and just
cut the slots for the biscuits and glued and clamped the layers together.
I clamped the entire assembly to the piece of 3/4" plywood and let
it set up overnight.
Next morning, I ran a sanding block over the joints to remove the squeeze
out that was on the surface and cut the rear edge radius corners on the
upper frame pieces. I used the bandsaw for rough shaping them and then
used the 10" Precision Sanding disc on my table saw to bring them
to final shape. I also trimmed the grating sections to shape with the
table saw and precision sanding disc.

This is the topside prior to assembly. Below is the bottom side prior
to assembly and cutting the radius corners in the rear edges.

I was now ready to assemble the two layers together. Again
I used biscuits and plastic resin glue. I clamped these layers together
to cure. I also attached the stringers that would secure the frame to
the stem. Clamped the entire assembly to the workbench to cure.
When this had cured, I finished cutting the radius corners front and rear
and finish shaped them with the precision sanding disc to the exact radius
desired. I rough cut the trailing edges to the correct angle to fit against
the hull and thru a slow process of scribe/cut/fit and trim procedures
gradually brought the entire assembly into an even, flush contact with
both of the hull sides as well as with the stem. This just takes careful
measurement of angles with the angle keeper and patterns that were cut
to fit the hull. Then taking a rough fit cut and slowly sanding/cutting/filing
each piece until it mates with the hull.

I then prepared the entire assembly for finishing. This
entailed a complete sanding of all the parts as well as the interior of
each of the grate cutouts formed by the interlocking strips. I had a few
chipped places that needed some filler and one or two minor gaps in the
framework that needed a bit of filler as well. I decided to stain the
grating with a pecan stain to match the other britework on the boat. When
I get to the point where the hull will be painted, the frame for the grate
will be painted the same as the stem and hull with a non-skid additive
to the urethane on the top surface of the framework. The grate will remain
"brite" with the pecan stain and either an oil or urethane finish.
The thicker edge band will be naturally finished Western Red Cedar.
The entire assembly is attached flush with the top surface of the stem
and deck. Screws will be driven an upward angle thru the hull sides and
into the deck stringers, just below the railing, with #8 X 1 1/2"
Stainless screws into the stem and longer stainless screws from below
into the hull, the holes will be plugged to dress them out.
Trail boards have been fabricated that will attach as per the plans. They
have been modified slightly in as much as the top edge on the forward
portion of the trail boards will extend up to the bottom of the actual
grate on both sides. The rear edge of the framework will attach to the
top edge of the trail boards as well giving the entire framework additional
support and rigidity. When finished, I doubt that anyone will notice from
more than a few feet away that they are actually supports for the grating
and framework. That may answer the question from the video of "what
is the function of the trail boards?" There is a thin neoprene strip
that will fit between the stem and the mounting stringer, the rear edges
and the hull and the top of the trail boards to separate the framework
from any potential movement against the hull and stem.
This
is the cedar trim edge wrap for the entire assembly. It has curved corners
to match the radius of the corners of the framework and will have a silicone
bead approximately 1/16" thick between the inner edge of the cedar
and the outer edge of the Hemlock frame. It is attached with three screws
thru each side and two thru the front and back edges. These screws are
in elongated slots set into the frame that will allow some movement for
expansion and contraction differences between the woods.
Here is the stained, assembled grating, as it will fit to the stem and
hull. The framework will be painted to match the stem and hull and a non-skid
will be added to the finish. It won't actually be attached until the rest
of the hull is finished, but it is ready to go otherwise.
I'll post photos of the entire finished Weekender when it gets closer
to launch time.

Here are a few more photos with a more finished look.



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